In the past few years, the Abbey Lounge has become a big part of the local-music scene. With its talent-contest stage, cheap brewskis, and undershirt-clad regulars, the Inman Square dive quickly endeared itself to bands and music fans alike.

But sometimes we pine for a nice, civilized drink before embarking on a sloppy night of PBR-fueled rockin’. Not very punk rock of us, we know, but we’re not kids anymore. Heck, we have 401(k)s, and dry cleaners we know on a first-name basis. Abbey co-owner J. Grimaldi sensed our yearning and answered with the Z Wine Bar, the next-door yin to the Abbey’s yang.

Admittedly, we were a tad skeptical that produce from "local family farms" could co-exist peacefully under the same roof as Bud splits and schlock rock. But that juxtaposition is exactly what Grimaldi loves. "This room is what the neighborhood is now," he said, gesturing around the buzzing bar on a recent Thursday. A well-heeled fortyish couple sampled red wines; a party of five whooped it up at the far end of the bar; and outside, a corset-clad, kohl-eyed rocker worried she was underdressed — until she poked her head in the door. An hour later, she was still sipping red at one of the tables.

Inspired by the simple, unpretentious food in Italy, Grimaldi devised a menu on which nearly everything is well under a 10-spot. The panini ($7) feature bread from Brookline’s acclaimed Clear Flour Bakery. The cheese plate ($7) comes with generous hunks of artisan fromage. Pick a pair of the bruschetta ($3), with taste combos such as sun-dried-tomato pesto and ricotta fresca.

As in Italia, it’s a family affair here. Grimaldi’s wife, Tia, decorated the stylishly cozy room; his cousin tends bar; and his childhood friend mans the kitchen. "Nana’s Meatballs" are just what they sound like. Even the fresh lemons in Grimaldi’s homemade limoncello are shipped in from his cousin’s daughter’s tree. And the name — Z — was a nickname for Grimaldi’s grandfather, Giuseppe ("Zeppe").

But let’s not forget the wine. Grimaldi readily admits he’s no connoisseur. Instead, he gathers the members of his staff and they choose the democratic way: by drinking. Seems to work — they wound up with a list full of inexpensive winners. Most bottles fall in the $25-to-$35 range, with a few big boys checking in at more than $60. We loved the Runquist "Z" Zinfandel ($36/bottle) on a recent visit. Truth be told, we loved it to the point of calling in late the next day.

That’s the thing about Z Wine Bar: you get comfy awfully quick. With the cheese plate, Grimaldi’s limoncello, and the sweet-talking staff, time flies — and before you know it, you’ve missed the dang band next door.

Z Wine Bar, located at 3 Beacon Street, in Somerville, is open on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, from 5 p.m. to 1 a.m., serving food until midnight. It will be open on Wednesdays starting in January. Call (617) 441-9631.