Next time you find yourself walking hungrily around Harvard Square, take a second look at Lee’s Sandwich Shop. Wedged in a narrow storefront next to Bob Slate Stationer, it’s the kind of place you may have walked by a hundred times and never noticed. Simply passing through the door transports you to an earlier era. The small wood-paneled restaurant boasts only three booths and seating along a counter that runs the length of the kitchen. While the menu offers standard diner fare — including tuna melts ($5.25), BLTs ($4.50), and hot pastrami ($5.25) — the two items you’ll hear ordered over and over again while sidled up to the green formica counter are burgers and grilled-cheese sandwiches. The large burgers ($4) are fresh-grilled, topped with sliced tomato and shredded lettuce, and served on a sesame-seed bun (no jingles, please) with fries. For an extra 25 cents, you can make it a cheeseburger, and for $5.50 you can indulge in a heart-stoppingly-good double cheeseburger. Grilled-cheese sandwiches ($3.50) are exactly what you’d expect from an old-school sandwich joint like Lee’s. Choose from the standard selection of breads — white, wheat, dark or light rye — and wait for your buttery, grilled sandwich oozing melted American cheese. If you want something more deluxe, there are plenty of options — including grilled ham and cheese ($5), grilled tuna and cheese ($5.25), grilled bacon and cheese ($5), and grilled cheese and tomato ($4). In true diner fashion, Lee’s serves good old bacon-and-egg breakfast specialties as well. The menu says breakfast is served until 11:30 a.m., but if you’re dying for a fried egg with bacon for lunch — ask. Depending on the mood of the line cook, and whether they’ve put the food away, you may get lucky. Before you leave, treat yourself to a scoop or two of mint-chocolate-chip ice cream ($2.75). Served in a silver dish reminiscent of traditional ice-cream parlors, it’s a great way to top off your all-American cheeseburger-and-French-fry lunch. Lee’s Sandwich Shop, located at 61 Church Street, in Cambridge, is generally open daily, from 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. Call (617) 876-4090.
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