They’ll put beans on your dog at Beantown Dogs. They’ll also put chopped celery, sautéed mushrooms, sliced cucumber, sweet red and hot jalapeño peppers, Greek tsatsiki sauce, Russian dressing, Swiss cheese, bacon bits (real ones!), and crushed tortilla. Situated in a pristine Brighton Avenue hole-in-the-wall just a few doors down from fellow frankfurter floggers Spike’s Junkyard Dogs, Beantown would seem to be spoiling for a dogfight. But, really, can one have too many tubesteaks on two city blocks? No, indeed. And anyway, while Spike’s augments its menu with staples like Buffalo wings and pizza, Beantown Dogs does dogs and dogs alone — and does them well. If you can’t decide among the 35 or so à la carte toppings (25 cents each), Beantown offers a slew of pre-dressed dogs ($2.50–$3.45) whose trimmings follow various thematic motifs (even if the correlation between the names and the toppings isn’t always clear). All the buns here — flat-sided New England–style, of course — are buttered and toasted to golden-brown perfection, but the sheer variety of hot dogs one can put within them boggles the mind. There’s the standard all-beef variety (natural casing or skinless, kosher or not), veggie dogs, and wieners made from steak, hamburger, turkey, and chicken. The MIT Dog (heaped with smoky-sweet baked beans, tender sautéed onions, and bacon bits; $2.75) and the Coney Island Slaw Dog (mustard and crisp coleslaw; $2.50) are straightforward; eaten as a pair, they’ve got all the ingredients of the perfect beanie-weenie dinner. But the Bacon Mushroom Melt Dog ($3.25) is a different beast: a hot dog made from hamburger (how’s that for splitting the difference?), it’s wrapped in generous helpings of sautéed mushrooms, bacon, and savory American cheese. The Turkey Club Dog ($2.75) goes an open-face sandwich one better, garnishing its flavorful turkey tube — not at all dry, as they sometimes can be — with lettuce, tomatoes, bacon, and mayo. While the Taco Dog ($2.85) spices up a beef frank with salsa, shredded lettuce, crushed tortilla shells, and a piquant Velveeta-esque cheese sauce, the Salad Dog ($2.95) is a healthier alternative: a veggie dog adorned with tomatoes and cukes, shredded lettuce, and ranch dressing. Most intriguing of all is the Thai Chicken Dog ($2.50), steamed to perfection, topped with melt-in-the-mouth sautéed onions, and drizzled with spicy peanut sauce. Beans, chili, and slaw are all available as sides ($1.95 each); there are potato chips too, of course. And there’s dessert. When we said Beantown Dogs deals in dogs and dogs alone, we meant it: even the vanilla ice cream ($2.75) comes shaped like a hot dog, snug in a sponge-cake bun. Beantown Dogs, located at 166 Brighton Avenue, in Allston, is open daily, from 10 a.m. to midnight. Call (617) 783-DOGS or visit www.beantowndogs.com
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