Bangalore CafŽ, recently opened on Mass Ave in East Arlington, is not to be missed. Unfortunately, it’s easy to drive right past it on the commute from Cambridge to Arlington. In fact, even upon entering the restaurant, the promise of a remarkable meal appears slim. Vinyl booths and tables share the space with a few framed Indian tapestries and New Age colored glass lamps. Cleanliness, order, and restraint seem to be the dŽcor’s key features.

But whatever the restaurant may lack in intimacy, it compensates for — and then some — with taste, smell, and kindness. The assortment of chutneys are freshly made, the mint chutney being especially fragrant. While all of the naans (breads) are delicious, the aloo naan ($2.95), stuffed with mashed potatoes, shouldn’t be missed. Another worthy appetizer is the vegetable samosa ($2.95), a deep-fried turnover stuffed with potato and peas.

The tandoori specials are all delicious, having been well cooked but removed from the heat while still juicy; if you can only have one, try the traditional chicken tandoori ($10.95). If you dislike cutting the meat from the bone, the chicken ticca ($10.95), marinated white-meat chicken pieces and spices, is a good choice. If you want chicken but not tandoori, try the chicken biryani ($10.95), with a touch of sweetness from the nuts and spices it’s made with.

Indian restaurants are a vegetarian’s delight, and Bangalore CafŽ is no exception. The chana masala ($8.95), a combination of herbs, spices, and chickpeas, is exceptional over basmati rice. Another favorite is saag paneer ($9.95), with cubes of cheese adding texture and zest to spinach. And should you have room for dessert, try the kulfi mango ($2.95), a fragrant homemade mango ice cream flavored with saffron.

Bangalore CafŽ, located at 166 Mass Ave, in Arlington, is open Sunday through Thursday, from 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m., and on Friday and Saturday, until 11 p.m. Call (781) 646-2550.