But Caribbean food in general, and Haitian food in particular, remain something of a cipher for most Americans. Le Chandelier Restaurant, in Brighton’s Oak Square neighborhood, is a good place to remedy this. The staff at Le Chandelier are commendably friendly, and quick to offer recommendations to diners (like this reviewer) who don’t know what they’re doing. Better still, the meals are filling and tasty — and, given the ample portions, quite reasonably priced. Because Le Chandelier’s slapdash menu says only that entrées are served with rice, I was unprepared for what accompanied the fish, prepared in sauce rather than fried ($14), and a combination plate of goat and meatballs ($8). First came two exceptionally fresh salads, each served with a small white roll and dressing on the side. When the entrées arrived, each was accompanied by two fried-plantain patties and a spicy, vinegary mix of diced cabbage and carrots. The fish with white rice came with a hefty bowl of puréed split peas and was perfectly prepared — sticky, salty, and still firm. "Black rice," consisting of a longer-grain rice tossed with baby shrimp and green peas and coated in a dried-mushroom-based sauce, was earthy and surprisingly potent. The fish, a whole red snapper, was served in a mild tomato sauce and topped with onions and peppers. (At the waitress’s suggestion, we took a pass on the head.) While the meatballs, which featured ground beef rolled with bread and potato, were greasily satisfying, they lacked a bit in salt and seasoning. The goat, however, was flawless. Each hunk had a crusty exterior reminiscent of overcooked beef, but the purplish-brown interiors were tender and succulent. Ideally, trying a new kind of food should be akin to traveling to a new land, with unfamiliar tastes and smells challenging the palate and a helpful guide leading the way. At Le Chandelier, that’s exactly the case. Le Chandelier Restaurant, located at 559 Washington Street, in Brighton, is open daily, from 7 am to 11 pm. Call 617.779.9921.
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