For many fans of Americanized Chinese food, "authentic" is an ominous and unwelcome word. But it doesn’t need to mean "frightening." On a recent visit to Taiwan Café, which is frequently touted as one of Boston’s "real" Chinese restaurants, my companion and I shared three items: braised tilapia with spicy bean-curd sauce, soy, and scallions ($10.95/entrée; $6.35/lunch special); home-style braised eggplant with basil ($8.95/$6.35); and a scallion pancake ($3.50). The latter — a 10-inch-diameter patty cut into eight wedges and folded on top of itself — would easily have fed four; it had a slight hint of sweetness and, though deep- fried, lacked the sheen of excess grease that can lessen the appeal of such items. The tilapia, which we ordered as an entrée, was served whole, smothered in an intense soy-based sauce and garnished with scallions and several cubes of tofu. The fish tasted quite fresh, and skillful cooking brought out its earthy, almost meaty flavor, although manifold small bones made caution essential.

The eggplant posed no such challenges. Its sauce, too, was soy-based, but featured ample garlic and a hefty dose of fresh basil. Tender, but with just a hint of residual chewiness, the eggplant was superior to any Chinese eggplant I’ve had before.

While Taiwan Café is nestled in a modest storefront, its interior is pleasant and the service attentive. The only drawback? An oblivious woman who hollered into her cell phone throughout our meal, ignoring both her small child and the annoyance of other diners. At a less-impressive restaurant, she might have ruined the meal. But Taiwan Café is so good that we almost didn’t notice.

Taiwan Café, located at 34 Oxford Street, in Boston, is open daily, from 11 am to 1 am. Call 617.426.8181.