Who’s ever heard of Gilman Square? Not us. Not you, if Somerville means Davis and Union and — what’s that one? — Ball. The people who know Gilman Square are the ones who grew up in Somerville and who live in this less-trod realm, with its Brazilian bakeries and boutiques and stoop-sitters. And it’s the long-time Somerville residents who eat at the saloon-style Paddock.

The place has been open for 25 years, and not much seems to have changed in that time. The walls are brick on the bar side, with tables for two and high stools. The restaurant side has dark wood paneling, red-seated booths, and long tables. It’s a dark space. There are horses everywhere.

Best to bring an equine appetite. The Paddock is most famed for its pizza ($9.50/cheese; $15.95/Paddock special with mushrooms, onions, peppers, olives, sausages, meatballs, salami, and pepperoni), voted the town’s best in the Somerville News last year. There’s also a slew of Italian entrées, plus barbecue fare and seafood. The cheeseburger ($4.25) was massive, perfectly cooked, way bigger than the bun. It arrived straightforward, alone on a small plate: just burger, cheese, and bun. To make up for the lack of sides, order the onion rings ($2.95), the best we’ve had in Boston. And the heaping antipasto ($7.95 and $11.95) comes with all the right trimmings: tuna, salami, provolone, olives, peppers, pepperoni, and string beans. It’s worth the trot.

The Paddock, located at 249 Pearl Street, in Somerville, is open daily, from 10:30 am to 11:30 pm. Call 617.628.6525.