Dino’s, which opened its doors in 1999, is a relative newcomer to the North End. But it carries itself like a neighborhood old-timer, serving huge portions of tasty food in a pleasant, unpretentious setting. The menu at this six-table restaurant is surprisingly broad, with showy dishes like pumpkin tortellini ($11). It’s the sandwiches, though — each of which is a preposterous 16 inches in length — that are the real finds. The Italian ($7) is so pretty you’ll feel guilty for eating it: five tomato slices, their edges dark with pooled oil and vinegar, perch on a carefully layered base of meat (capicola, salami, mortadella), provolone, and lettuce, with pickle cubes, pepper relish, and red onion thrown in for good measure. The grilled-chicken parmesan ($7) comes on the same sweet, soft French bread, but deviates slightly from standard parm protocol: tender chunks of white-meat chicken are served unbreaded, in a simple, brightly flavored tomato sauce. Fortunately, the chicken is bathed in a viscous, savory paste of American and grated parmesan cheese, which compensates for the missing breading. The veggie sub ($7) is no slouch, either. Red and green peppers and huge hunks of meaty portobello mushrooms are soaked in a vinegary marinade, then fried with sliced red onion and served with fresh tomatoes and grated mozzarella. Each sandwich is served, at a jaunty diagonal, on a white sheet of paper spread over an orange plastic lunch tray. Nothing fancy, true, but that’s part of the appeal. Be sure to ask for a fork to help nab any stray ingredients — chances are you’ll want to clean your plate. Dino’s Café, located at 141 Salem Street, in Boston, is open daily, from 11 am to 10 pm. Call 617.227.1991.
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