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Hidden Kitchen
Find it fast
BY ADAM REILLY
Previous Columns

Most Bostonians don’t know that the Hidden Kitchen exists. But for the devoted regulars who flock there for breakfast and lunch, it’s an integral part of daily life — the communal equivalent, in the postindustrial landscape of Albany Street and environs, of a glorified family dining room.

The patrons who file into the Hidden Kitchen’s tiny three-table space tend to greet the owners, Nick and Maria Koufos, by first name. They’re also quick to banter with the Koufoses’ 14-year-old son, Dennis, who helps out behind the counter during school vacations. And the Koufoses respond in kind; as one customer puts it, "These guys know everybody’s name by heart — and they remember people from years ago."

Without good food, this warmth and fuzziness wouldn’t matter much. But the food is good — and there’s plenty of it. The fried-haddock special ($7.95), served on Fridays, is the closest thing to English fish and chips that you’ll get in Boston: three big, crispy hunks of haddock come buried under a mound of twice-cooked French fries, with plenty of fresh coleslaw on the side. Another lunch special, the chicken-parmesan cutlet with ziti ($7.95), is quintessential comfort food. After they’ve been pounded, breaded, and fried into submission, two chicken fillets are served with a side of pasta, bathed in a light tomato sauce, and topped with loads of cheese. The dessert of the house, rice pudding ($1.95), is stodgy and just a bit sweet. It’s a nice complement to the Hidden Kitchen’s heavier entrées, but be forewarned: it also has potent sleep-inducing powers.

For those who crave marginally lighter fare, there are more than 40 sandwich options, ranging in price from $1.65 (for the fried egg) to $6.50 (for the steak-combo sub), plus a smattering of salads and wraps.

Too often, hidden gems like this take on a cliquish air that can leave newcomers feeling unwelcome. The Koufoses, though, seem to treat first-timers and regulars with equal warmth. Between the atmosphere and the food, it’s no wonder business is booming.

The Hidden Kitchen, located at 535 Albany Street, in Boston, is open Monday through Friday, from 6 am to 2:30 pm. Call 617.426.1544.


Issue Date: August 19 - 25, 2005
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