Greenhills Irish Bakery may be the spiritual epicenter of Irish Dorchester. The walls are covered with Hibernian memorabilia — the text of the Irish national anthem, autographed pictures of expat boxer Kevin McBride, handwritten messages from newly arrived émigrés — and more customers have brogues than don’t.

From a culinary standpoint, this might seem worrisome; after all, Irish cuisine has long been considered uninspiring. But Greenhills does Irish gastronomy proud. At lunchtime, the chicken-curry sandwich ($4.95) — featuring pungently spiced, pale-yellow chunks of chicken mixed with a smidgen of minced celery — is a must-try. Ask for this one on Irish brown bread, which has a crusty saltiness that nicely offsets the curry’s sweet punch.

For daring eaters, the innocuously named breakfast roll ($4.95) is another good choice. This sandwich is a kind of perfect storm of meat: two slabs of Irish bacon, two hunks each of black and white pudding (best not to ask), and two sausages are teamed with an egg and served on a crusty sub roll — which, just to up the ante, is slathered in ketchup and butter. Pound for pound, it may be the most satisfying and exhausting dish in Boston.

Fortunately, there’s lighter fare as well. The scones ($1.10) have a perfect two-fold texture, crusty on the outside and moist within. Try the rock-and-treacle, which resembles Irish soda bread but comes studded with large-grain sugar. And if the trek to Dorchester’s Adams Village neighborhood is a long one, be sure to grab a loaf or two of bread for the ride home. There are plenty of options, but neither the Irish brown or raisin soda ($3.50) will disappoint.

Greenhills Irish Bakery, located at 780 Adams Street, in Dorchester, is open Monday through Saturday, from 5 am to 7 pm, and Sunday, from 6 am to 2 pm. Call 617.825.8187.