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Rachel’s Kitchen
Egg-cellent simplicity
BY LIZA WEISSTUCH
Previous Columns

Consider for a moment the egg. A shot of pure protein. The subject of an existential riddle. An oft-craved breakfast food that comes in so many variations you can almost customize your order to suit your mood — sunny-side-up, scrambled, hard-boiled. But even the basic egg has a high potential for disaster during preparation. There’s the delicacy required in handling before it hits the pan. Too many fancy trimmings and you’re doomed. But Rachel Miller Munzer and her husband, Alon, haven’t lost sight of the egg’s simple loveliness. Their focus is, literally, on display at Rachel’s Kitchen, which they opened in February in a tiny Bay Village alcove.

Entering the nook is a step into a retro-kissed exhibit of breakfast goodness in action. When I stopped in, Rachel was fielding phone orders and greeting customers by name while Alon cranked out an egg sandwich ($3.50), rolled a hummus wrap ($6.25), then leaned in to check the water for my soft-boiled egg (85 cents) — all in a salute to simplicity. We’ll call it Zen Americana. How else to explain a joint where you can walk in and order a peanut butter, banana, and honey sandwich ($4) or brioche French toast drizzled with pure maple syrup ($5.75)? Even the Friday special, a roll of glistening, fresh lobster meat ($11.95), is free of fortifications like mayo or oil. Its irresistible old-school charm, or that of the three-cheese deluxe — with bacon, tomato, and chives ($6.50) — almost feels like a thumb-in-the-eye to nearby chic bistros. Like the egg itself, Rachel’s sits modestly as a tribute to the elemental, the scrumptious stuff that forms the foundation of the most complex, demanding recipes.

Rachel’s Kitchen, located at 12 Church Street, in Boston, is open Monday through Friday, from 7 am to 3 pm, and on Saturday, from 8 am to 2 pm. Call 617.423.EGGS.


Issue Date: September 30 - October 6, 2005
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