Just as sure as you can’t whip up a soufflŽ without eggs, produce a movie without a camera, or make gin without juniper, it’s hard to make a convincing argument for a neighborhood’s gentrification without pointing to new eating establishments as evidence. Take, for instance, South Boston. It’s long been a proud, impermeable bastion of dive bars, Irish bakeries, no-frills hardware stores, and reasonably priced housing. Now, however, there are dog-grooming parlors, boutiques, lofts for the stylish set — and a sushi joint with hip Eastern dŽcor and great food.

On a recent Friday night, the six-seat sushi bar at Teriyaki House was filled to capacity, a handful of people mulled about waiting for their takeout orders, and three orders were headed out with the delivery man. Despite the bustle in the kitchen, there was an overwhelming sense of calm — but what else would you expect from a place where the wooden slats on the ceiling are designed to look like gentle ocean waves?

There was a mild sense of panic when it came to deciding among the sushi, lo meins, teriyaki dishes, noodle soups, and stir-fried options. Then the food arrived and plunged us into a deeper state of contentment. The sushi choices include everything you’d expect from a raw-fish joint, like maki ($2.75–$5) and plenty of nigiri and sashimi, which can ordered by the piece ($1.20–$2.50). There are plenty of other fish to fry — and grill — here. Try the unagi bowl ($7), a deep dish containing rice, mixed veggies, and velvety eel luxuriating in sweet barbecue sauce; Korean spicy shrimp ($8.50); or teriyaki salmon ($8.50) with a slightly spicy rub. There are chicken, steak, and veggie options for each, too. Offset the saline soy-sauce flavor with bubble tea ($2.75–$3.15), or perch yourself at the bar and order a sake ($5–$8) or Tsing-Tao ($3.75) beer.

A beer at the bar? Sounds like Southie to us.

Teriyaki House, located at 32 West Broadway, in South Boston, is open Monday through Friday, from 11 am to 1 am, and on Saturday and Sunday, from 11:30 am to 1 am. Call 617.269.2000.