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Kookoo
Gourmet hideaway
BY LIZ BOMZE
Previous Columns

Much like the pottery studio on the Station Street block in Brookline Village, Kookoo is practically imperceptible to the average passerby. In fact, were it not for the chalkboard easel of menu items out front on the sidewalk, you could easily miss it — but your loss would be considerable.

Past the clamoring Green Line trains across the street and its austere brick-warehouse exterior, Kookoo first offers warmth and vibrant color. There are a couple of bistro tables, sconce-like shelves lined with exotic teas, and two cases of prepared food — one containing bowls of hummus, stuffed grape leaves, and tabouleh, the other with baskets of baked goods (both homemade and from Boston-famous Iggy’s Breads). Triangles of buttery baklava ($1.50) and lemon-poppyseed muffins ($1.75) butt up against chocolate croissants, bagels, and a canister of honey popsicles ($1.50). And everything you could want in a cup from Starbucks is listed on the wall menu.

Though you have your choice of bread (including focaccia, French rolls, and multi-grain), pita wraps are recommended for most sandwiches, including savory falafel ($5.75) and stuffed grape leaves ($6.95) — yes, they’re piled into a wrap along with cucumber, tomato, and lettuce. Otherwise, the tuna sandwich with brie and honey mustard ($6.95) is excellent on the boule-like French bread, and the cup of soup ($2.95) is perfect for warming chilly hands while you wait for the train.

Kookoo, located at 7 Station Street, in Brookline, is open Monday through Friday, from 7 am to 6 pm, and on Saturday, from 7 am to approximately 4 pm. Call 617.730.5525.


Issue Date: December 30, 2005 - January 5, 2006
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