Davis Square has been burping up some major gastronomic changes of late: the local branch of Picante, home of the fatty burrito and the delectably goopy super-nacho, lost its lease after more than a decade; the bubble-faced Diva Lounge finally looks ready to open; even the corner Store 24 just amped up its flavored-coffee stock. But the most welcome alteration to the Square-scape is the brand-new Bhoja Café, a sunny coffee-and-sandwich bar owned by the same family that runs the tasty Tibetan restaurant, Martsa’s on Elm, next door. With its yellow-walled pantry with a handful of tables, an espresso machine, and tea canisters, Bhoja looks from the outside like any other coffee-moored outpost, a species already abundant in Davis. While you can certainly get the standard single espresso ($1.75) or a frothily sweet cappuccino ($2.35), the café sets itself apart with its made-to-order sandwiches. There’s the mango mushroom ($6), an exotically clever combination of marinated portobello mushrooms, fried tofu, red peppers, caramelized onions, and mango chutney. Even better is the vegetarian delight ($6.25), a glistening stack of fresh mozzarella, roasted red peppers, sun-dried tomatoes, and artichoke-heart chunks with a pesto drizzle. But the five-star yum-after-yum-after-yum selection is the Maharaja ($6.25), a grilled wrap of hickory-smoked chicken, lettuce, tomato, cilantro, sour cream, tandoori paste, and lime dressing (we had them hold the red onions). The tandoori/cilantro amalgamation is tangy, but not overpowering — like an Eastern riff on Southern barbecue. Bhoja also capitalizes on something that’s been missing as a take-out option in the milieu: gourmet chocolate pastries. In a shiny glass case are shelves displaying molded sugary confections. Like a groaningly good chocolate-dipped peanut-butter-sandwich cookie ($1.15). Or a Beggar’s Purse ($4.95), a fist-size sack of smooth mousse-like chocolate covered in dark chocolate and set over a cakey base. Or Better ’N Your Mommas, a feisty slice of chewy chocolate layer cake. Unless your momma’s Betty Crocker, she won’t be making one better. Bhoja Café, located at 235 Elm Street, in Somerville, is open daily, from 8 am to 9 pm. Call 617.440.6011.
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