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Restaurant redux
Revisiting some recent favorites


 Restaurant redux

Argana, 1287 Cambridge Street, Cambridge, (617) 868-1247

If there are hit songs, maybe there are hit restaurants, and Argana feels like the summer hit of 2002. Exotic Moroccan food and décor mix with Euro-techno sounds to evoke both the ancient world and the present moment. Get the mixed-appetizer meze plate, couscous Argana, anything with lamb, and the mint sorbet for dessert. Entrée prices: $14–$24.

Caffe Umbra, 1395 Washington Street, Boston, (617) 867-0707

In the shadow of the Cathedral of the Holy Cross, Caffe Umbra is about the last place we’d expect a trendy bistro, but veteran chef Laura Brennan quickly drew crowds for a menu of French-inflected specialties with lively flavors. The vegetable aïoli, skate wings, and coffee pot de crème are sure to be widely imitated. Entrée prices: $14–$23.

Cambridge 1, 27 Church Street, Cambridge, (617) 576-1111

Miracle of Science guys do it again with Greater Boston’s kewlest pizza parlor. Nice salads, crispy ultra-thin-crust pies, a cunning wine list, and one dessert, Toscanini’s tiramisu ice cream. The employees wear jeans and black shirts, and you’ll wish you did, too. Entrée prices: $7–$15.

The Independent, 75 Union Square, Somerville, (617) 440-6021

It looks like an Irish pub, and the servers have the right lilt, but the kitchen is into adapting the French classics to seasonal produce. Have an appetizer soup, the grilled local squid with chickpea fries, seared scallops, and any dessert with ice cream. If the wine list doesn’t interest you, there are 12 beers on tap. The initial crowd was very young, but interested in serious dining. Entrée prices: $15–$23.

Khao Sarn Cuisine, 250 Harvard Avenue, Brookline, (617) 566-7200

The usual classy Thai restaurant with modern décor, excellent service, and very modest prices, but set apart by some serious regional cuisine from Northern Thailand. Don’t miss the Miang Kum appetizer, little jewels of flavor you roll up in a spinach leaf and pop into your mouth. Also, don’t be afraid of the mousse-like Haw Moak salmon steamed in banana leaves, the stuffed omelet, or the tamarind duck. And definitely let the server sell you the fresh mango with sticky rice for dessert! Entrée prices: $8–$15.

Locke-Ober, 3 Winter Place, Boston, (617) 542-1340

Boston’s grand 19th-century dining room, preserved for a century by Yankee stubbornness (thrift had nothing to do with it), and now restored to ancient glory by Lydia Shire, as though to test whether it can be extremely hip to be extremely square. The best food may be the occasional innovation, like scallop tournedos with pea tendrils, though most will want the classics: lobster Savannah, anchovies Winter Place, calf’s liver and onions, steak tartare, oysters Gino, sweetbreads Eugenie under glass, and — alas — Indian pudding. Dress well and carry a big credit card. Entrée prices: $25–$48.

Macondo Latin Grill and Bar, 70 Union Square, Somerville, (617) 616-1411

Macondo is the village of Gabriel García Márquez’s magical-realist novels, and chef Paul Sussman spins and blends Latin American food, sometimes quite magically. His best work goes into the rotating-bocadillos (like a mixed antipasto) appetizer, fried-chicken and skirt-steak entrées, and wonderful quasi-tropical desserts. Turning a Somerville grotto into an Andean mansion, now there’s magical realism. Entrée prices: $16–$19.

Pho Que Huong, 122-126 Harvard Avenue, Allston, (617) 254-9690

Vietnamese and Chinese, with some promising fusions, Pho Que Huong is one of the nicest, cheapest Asian restaurants in a neighborhood full of just those. Hungry parties may want to order an extra dish or two, especially of the fresh spring rolls, beef with lemongrass, or the seafood medley with vegetables. And keep an eye on the live-seafood tanks. Entrée prices: $6–$12.

Sister Sorel, 647 Tremont Street, Boston, (617) 266-4600

The bare-brick bar side of Tremont 647 isn’t just a tricky way to get Andy Husbands’s big-flavored food without a reservation; it has a nifty small-dinner menu of its own. The smaller plates, like spit-roasted chicken and " burger daddy, " make light, lively suppers. You can also steal the Tremont 647 momos for an appetizer, and add one of its fancy desserts. Entrée prices: $8–$11.50.

Taste of India, 277B Huntington Avenue, Boston, (617) 867-9700

Boston’s first Bangladeshi restaurants (their original outpost is in Dorchester), although they also excel with the familiar pan-Indian menu. The Huntington Avenue locale is right next to Symphony Hall, and appropriately spiffed up. Don’t miss the rich biryani pilafs and spinach sauces, nicely handled shrimp dishes, or anything with " Bangladeshi-style spices. " Entrée prices: $11–$17.

33, 33 Stanhope Street, Boston, (617) 572-3311

A neo-’50s fun house of slanted floors, oddly angled walls, and shifting lights can distract you from the avant-garde food of Charles Draghi. Sift through a complicated menu divided into French and Italian for his herbal-infused sauces, or stick with proven winners like the Piedmontese tuna pâté, lobster bisque, pansotti, and unusual sorbets. Dress flamboyantly and blend in with the scenery, or eat outdoors in season. Entrée prices: $16–$39.

Via Via, 1032 Beacon Street, Brookline, (617) 264-2266

What we have here is an incredibly good pizza joint, inside of which is a fine Middle Eastern restaurant trying to get out, and meanwhile serving superb lasagna. Don’t miss the " Via Via salad, " which does all that with spinach, goat cheese, pine nuts, and dates, or the falafel, or that tiramisu on the counter. Entrée prices: $5–$18.

Zon’s, 2 Perkins Street, Jamaica Plain, (617) 524-9767

Dark and loud, but some of the best food at the best prices ever served in such a small restaurant. Get anything with a lot of vegetables on it, such as " today’s catch, " or the bargain rib-eye steak, or lobster gnocchi. Good wines available by the glass; get the chocolate cupcake for dessert. Entrée prices: $7–$17.

ZuZu, 474 Mass Ave, Cambridge, (617) 864-3278, ext. 237

Between the two storefronts of the cheap and reliable old Middle East is a fancy new bistro that takes Lebanese food in Boston to new levels, especially if you order the grilled-kebab tastes, rock shrimp with falafel cakes, the Middle Eastern bouillabaisse, or the lovely crème caramel. For a lighter meal, combine some small plates with one of the salads, and you’ll still be able to dance the rest of the night away. Entrée prices: $14–$20.

Issue Date: September 26 - October 3, 2002
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