The original version of Lucy’s combined a warm atmosphere with a no-fat credo that seriously compromised the wood-oven pizzas, semi-vegetarian concept, and woman-friendly tone. A new chef, Eric Bogardus, has been given the keys to the olive-oil cellar, and now Lucy’s has some excellent food, is a little less crunchy, has slightly higher prices, and is about as perfect a neighborhood bistro for Coolidge Corner as anyone could imagine.

Although the table still features a cruet of balsamic vinegar where one might expect oil or butter, the server will now offer to get truly excellent extra-virgin olive oil. In place of the seven-grain, the breadbasket substitutes an Iggy’s-style walnut-fruit loaf, along with what tastes like a sourdough-potato roll.

Our favorite appetizer for cooler fall nights was sancocho ($8), a simplified version of the Colombian national soup. What’s skinny about this soup is the clear broth, but what a broth! It’s real chicken stock, perked up with lime juice and a hit of cilantro. The bowl has boneless-chicken and potato chunks. A South American soup would be more complicated (as well as thicker), but this is great eating all around.

Marrow-and-date dumplings with teapot beef consommé ($11) sounds about as far from the old no-fat Lucy’s as you can get, but the three dumplings are actually like middleweight matzo balls, with hints of beef marrow and dates in the flavoring. The soup is served from a teapot, and as happens with such elaborate service and shallow bowls, it’s never really hot. It’s also a little saltier than the chicken stock in the sancocho, but still very good.

"Fallen Caesar" salad ($9) isn’t so much "fallen" as slightly wilted on the grill. It’s a variation of the original Lucy’s "grilled heart of romaine," which I hated. Better cheffery has turned it completely around, reducing the char to an intriguing hint of flavor in a deconstructed Caesar consisting of a whole lettuce, whole white anchovies here and there, a split hard-boiled egg, and a single curved toast as a crouton. The new version is lots of fun.

The pizza has also done a 180. The crust used to be whole wheat, apparently unleavened, and more like a hard cracker than a pizza. My new-Lucy’s "pizza of Bartlett pear, fontina, balsamic tomato marinara, and sliced prosciutto di Parma" ($18) had a real thin-pizza crust, perhaps a little dry, but entirely delicious with reduced but effective melted cheese and tomato, and the unconventional but successful topping of prosciutto and pear.

Banana-leaf cod ($19) is steamed in the banana leaf, with a sauce of creamed parsnips (much more interesting than the old "no-butter garlic potatoes"). The garnish is a chunk of eggplant filled with a Thanksgiving-style bread stuffing, and sautéed broccolini with enough garlic.

My favorite entrée, though, was ostrich Stroganoff ($24). My previous bouts with ostrich have been in steak or chop-like presentations. Here we have medium-rare slices, but in a creamy mushroom sauce that adds lots of flavor. You could soak up the extra sauce with the "crispy chickpea polenta fries." I’m not sure they’re actually fried. The inspiration here must have been panisses, the all-chickpea fried sticks of Southern France. The cornmeal content actually lightens the sticks nicely, and the crust is a little more crisp as well. A tart mango salsa adds the contrasting condiment on a plate that ought to be widely imitated.

The wine list was one of the original Lucy’s strengths, and it hasn’t lost a step. This time we tried the 2000 Marmini Cabernet Sauvignon ($10/glass; $36/bottle), which had all the Bordeaux flavors with a surprising softness that rather suited the food. The Smoking Loon pinot noir ($7) had a bit of earthiness to the nose, and more complexity than I’ve seen in an American pinot noir in a while. I’d like these wines better in larger glasses, but I think the large-pour/small-glass format is part of the female feel of Lucy’s. If you opt for bottled Aqua Panna ($5), it stays on the table so you can refill as needed. We had a thin, burnt decaf ($1.75) but good cappuccino ($3). Tea is still served as a metal pot of hot water, but at least now the kitchen puts the bag in while the water is still hot.

Desserts were good before, and better now. The simple bowl of the freshest seasonal fruits ($6) was strawberries, apples, pear, and banana — not exactly my seasonal bowl, but good. The chocolate torte ($8) is a fallen cupcake of intense flavor. The pumpkin torte ($8) has a very cute pumpkin-seed brittle as a garnish. The basic little pie has a good crust, but a somewhat-bland filling. Squash is often the secret ingredient in your better pumpkin pies.

Service at Lucy’s has improved with maturity. Unobtrusive live jazz some nights fits right in. These days, in fact, most things fit right in at Lucy’s, even a promise to show important sports events on TV. Given how few restaurants ever improve on the opening concept, Lucy’s has become a real standout.

Robert Nadeau can be reached at RobtNadeau@aol.com