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Café Vanille pastries
A little love in every bite
BY LIZA WEISSTUCH

  PREVIOUS COLUMNS
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From model trains to dollhouses, an obsession with all things miniature is almost as American as baseball (that’s Little League, of course). Though you probably wouldn’t choose to downsize dessert, the smaller ones at least shrink the guilt factor. Besides, just look at the giant way Dunkin’ Donuts has jumped on the munchkin-size bandwagon. So when you’re yearning to have really rich cake and eat every last bit of it too, try Beacon Hill French bakery Café Vanille, which has made sweet moderation into an art.

Gazing at Vanille’s assortment of tarts, tortes, mousse cups, and cakes is the perfect antidote to staring dully into a Whitman’s chocolate sampler. It’s easy to resort to childish habits at Vanille: press your nose to the glass and ogle the precious pastel macaroons, a small army of frosty napoleons, little linzertortes that glisten with a raspberry sheen, Paris-Brests with silky spirals of whipped cream that practically ooze from the flaky nut-sprinkled pastry, and dainty éclair-esque Carolines filled with more fudge than appears possible (all 95 cents each). Or go high epicurean with a tiny puff of angel-food cake ensconced in a smooth white-chocolate-orange-mousse shell ($1.50).

Can’t hang with the big guys? At least you can be decadent in the diminutive.

Available at Café Vanille, 70 Charles Street, in Boston. Call (617) 523-9200.

Issue Date: March 21-28, 2002
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