Music Feedback
New This WeekAround TownMusicFilmArtTheaterNews & FeaturesFood & DrinkAstrology
  HOME
NEW THIS WEEK
EDITORS' PICKS
LISTINGS
NEWS & FEATURES
MUSIC
FILM
ART
BOOKS
THEATER
DANCE
TELEVISION
FOOD & DRINK
ARCHIVES
LETTERS
PERSONALS
CLASSIFIEDS
ADULT
ASTROLOGY
PHOENIX FORUM DOWNLOAD MP3s

  E-Mail This Article to a Friend
Rapscallion Artisanal Beers
A new kind of brew
BY MIKE MILIARD

  PREVIOUS COLUMNS

The thinking behind Concord Brewing’s new line of beers is that they should give the brewer an opportunity to strut his stuff. They’re meant to offer him the chance to let loose, draw upon a career’s worth of knowledge, and give free reign to his own tastes and idiosyncrasies. These inspired works rightly treat the creation of beer as an art. Brewer Dann Paquette has the sure hand of an old master.

The orange-gold Rapscallion Premier is triple fermented (the last go-’round occurs in the bottle). The result is enormous flavor, a complicated, multilayered interrelation of citrus overtones, and a faint underpinning of bitterness. Its vibrancy and buoyant body make it an ideal evening sip for the waning summer’s remaining long evenings.

The Rapscallion Blessing is a stately, deep-orange brew with a sweetish-spicy tang. At eight percent alcohol by volume, it manages to have distinctive heft without seeming at all heavy. And as with the Premier, the Blessing’s hoppy flavor betrays hints of a seeded orange fruit: pumpkin. This one wouldn’t be out of place with a hearty meal sometime in the approaching autumn chill.

Premier and Blessing refuse to be constrained by traditional labels like " ale, " " pilsner, " or " lambic. " They exist instead as works unto themselves, for no other reason than the sheer beauty of it. Fine art always does.

Rapscallion beers are on tap at Bukowski’s, 50 Dalton Street, in Boston, and for sale in bottles at Formaggio Kitchen, 244 Huron Avenue, in Cambridge; South End Formaggio, 268 Shawmut Avenue, in Boston; University Wine Shop, 991 Mass Ave, in Cambridge; and Harvard Provision, 94 Mt. Auburn Street, in Cambridge. For more information, call (978) 371-9929, or visit www.concordbrew.com

Issue Date: August 8 - 15, 2002
Click here for the Noshing archives
Back to the Food & Drink table of contents.
  E-Mail This Article to a Friend

home | feedback | about the phoenix | find the phoenix | advertising info | privacy policy | the masthead | work for us

 © 2002 Phoenix Media Communications Group