The thinking behind Concord Brewing’s new line of beers is that they should give the brewer an opportunity to strut his stuff. They’re meant to offer him the chance to let loose, draw upon a career’s worth of knowledge, and give free reign to his own tastes and idiosyncrasies. These inspired works rightly treat the creation of beer as an art. Brewer Dann Paquette has the sure hand of an old master.
The orange-gold Rapscallion Premier is triple fermented (the last go-’round occurs in the bottle). The result is enormous flavor, a complicated, multilayered interrelation of citrus overtones, and a faint underpinning of bitterness. Its vibrancy and buoyant body make it an ideal evening sip for the waning summer’s remaining long evenings.
The Rapscallion Blessing is a stately, deep-orange brew with a sweetish-spicy tang. At eight percent alcohol by volume, it manages to have distinctive heft without seeming at all heavy. And as with the Premier, the Blessing’s hoppy flavor betrays hints of a seeded orange fruit: pumpkin. This one wouldn’t be out of place with a hearty meal sometime in the approaching autumn chill.
Premier and Blessing refuse to be constrained by traditional labels like " ale, " " pilsner, " or " lambic. " They exist instead as works unto themselves, for no other reason than the sheer beauty of it. Fine art always does.
Rapscallion beers are on tap at Bukowski’s, 50 Dalton Street, in Boston, and for sale in bottles at Formaggio Kitchen, 244 Huron Avenue, in Cambridge; South End Formaggio, 268 Shawmut Avenue, in Boston; University Wine Shop, 991 Mass Ave, in Cambridge; and Harvard Provision, 94 Mt. Auburn Street, in Cambridge. For more information, call (978) 371-9929, or visit www.concordbrew.com