Despite their ubiquity in the Starbucks pastry case, scones have always seemed to me like the Jan Brady of breakfast breads, stuck somewhere between the easy glamour of the croissant and the sugary mass appeal of the doughnut.

Then I tried the cheddar-and-scallion scones at Joanne Chang’s Flour Bakery + Café in the South End. Chang’s scones have plenty of air and butter, smoothing out the salty tang of the cheddar and the bite of the scallions. They’re small but filling, which makes them a bit of a commitment. As a result, they’re best enjoyed on a Sunday morning, on the kind of day when the South End is full of dogs and strollers and people having brunch on Tremont Street, when you can sit down at the big farmhouse table in Flour’s front window and take your time.

Available for $1.50 at Flour Bakery + Café, 1595 Washington Street, in Boston. Call (617) 267-4300.