As if the spectacle of the re-emerging daylight isn’t enough to lure you to the North End, it’s time again for a very special once-a-year treat: zeppole di San Giuseppe. If you have a hard time getting your mouth around the name, just ask for those little cream-puff goodies made for the Italian Father’s Day. And trust me, you’ll have no problem translating the taste of these super-decadent Italian pastries. Made in honor of Saint Joseph’s Day — March 19 — they’re little pockets of joy: egg-batter pastries, fried and filled with pastry cream and Italian amarena (black-cherry) preserves. Granted, you’re probably not going to find them on the list of approved foods for whatever diet you might be on, so you’ll just have to get over it and eat one because it’ll make you happy. And that’s the point. They’re a celebratory food, traditionally a part of the feast of Saint Joseph, protector of the Babe and Virgin Mary (hence, his festival is Father’s Day in Italy), who also happens to be the patron saint credited in Sicily with bringing some much-needed rain during a particularly bleak time of year. While we can probably decline on the rain, who doesn’t need a little something sweet right about now? As for the calories, never mind. Eat some zeppole; hide under a sweater. Once March passes, they’re gone. Available for $2.50 each through March at Maria’s Pastry Shop, 46 Cross Street, Boston, (617) 523-1196; and Modern Pastry, 257 Hanover Street, Boston, (617) 523-3783.
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