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Paper City Goat’s Peak Bock, Riley’s Mother’s Milk Stout, and Blond Hop Monster
True brew
BY MIKE MILIARD
Previous Columns

Three beers released not long ago by Holyoke’s Paper City Brewery demonstrate that this small Western Massachusetts outfit is equally adept at a trio of styles that could hardly be more dissimilar.

First, there’s the Goat’s Peak Bock, a fine example of a German genus of malt-heavy beer that’s traditionally consumed during the spring months, especially May (that would be now). Deep-red amber in color and rich and sweet in flavor, its notes of brown sugar and caramel make it an exemplary bock for these warming days.

Riley’s Mother’s Milk Stout is one of Paper City’s ever-changing Brewer’s Offerings, limited-run batches of more obscure beer varieties. Deep and black, redolent of smoke, cocoa, and coffee, it’s a delicious instance of a seldom-seen sort of stout — one brewed with lactose, and imbued with its milk-sugar sweetness.

Then there’s the Blond Hop Monster (also a Brewer’s Offering), which more than lives up to its name. Weighing in at a formidable 8.5 percent ABV, its potency is evident from the walloping tongue-lashing it gives. Its enormous hops presence lends it the pucker-inducing tang of citrus (grapefruit, especially) and calls out strong essences of pungent greenery. It’s not the archetypal "lawnmower beer," but the Hop Monster certainly puts one in the mind of hazy days and fresh-cut grass.

Goat’s Peak Bock is available for about $2.50 for a 22-ounce bottle at Martignetti’s Liquors, 1650 Soldiers Field Road, in Brighton. Call (617) 782-3700. Riley’s Mother’s Milk Stout and Blond Hop Monster are available for about $7 and $8 per six-pack, respectively, at Downtown Wine & Spirits, 225 Elm Street, in Somerville. Call (617) 625-7777.


Issue Date: May 14 - 20, 2004
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