We weep for the state of the modern carbonated soft drink. Gone are the good ol’ days when a drink’s flavor and physiological effects lived up to its name. Nowadays, we drink root beer that contains none of its namesake sarsaparilla root, and cream soda with not a hint of cream. (And the less said about Coca-Cola and Dr Pepper, the better.)

And then, of course, there’s ginger ale.

Anyone who’s known the fizzy and forgettable taste of the most popular brands out there will tell you that so-called ginger ale is light on the ginger, heavy on the syrupy-sweet "natural flavors." Damn shame, too. A glass of the real thing makes for some of the best front-porch sipping that summer has to offer: peppery, crisp, refreshing. A sudden blast of ginger’s initial bite gives way to a clean, sweet finish. (And, as any herbalist could tell you, ginger ale’s much-touted ability to cure a stomach ache has more to do with the properties of the actual ginger root than with the carbonation. So ginger ale without real ginger is basically a placebo.)

The real thing is readily available, and cheaply at that. This summer, introduce — or re-introduce — yourself to ginger ale’s rambunctious half-cousin: ginger beer.

Goya offers a traditional Jamaican-style brew that goes perfectly with spicy barbecue fare. It’s a cheaper — and better-tasting — alternative to the Canada Drys of the world. And it just might cure your tummy ache, too.

Available at local grocery stores for around $1 for two 12-ounce bottles.