Good beer comes in bottles. Bad beer comes in cans. That’s just the way it is. Right? Well, actually, no. Marlborough’s Sherwood Forest Brewers sees things differently. Its dark-brown, deeply flavorful Archer’s Ale is one of the only craft beers in the US to be packaged exclusively in aluminum cans. As far as Sherwood Forest is concerned, it’s time for a paradigm shift when it come to the nickel deposit. "Think about the UK," says owner David Lambert. "Everything is in cans. I started to think, what if we canned our beer? How would that be received? Could you do it? Would it compromise the flavor?" So Lambert sent folks out to make some observations and crunch some numbers, and the answer came back: "It’s a no-brainer." Cans chill more quickly in the fridge than bottles do. They keep longer, too. "The beer has a longer shelf life in the can," says Lambert. "There is no light. There is no air. It’s sealed." And anyone justifiably fearful that an aluminum taste may impinge on the delicately calibrated flavors of a craft brew should rest assured: the can’s polymer lining prevents that entirely. Cans are also much easier to recycle. Another bonus: the price. "Sometimes you’re paying more for the packaging than you are for the beer," says Lambert. "And sometimes it costs the brewer more for the packaging than what they’re putting inside the bottle." A six-pack of Archer’s might cost as much as a buck and a half less than six bottles of a similar beer. But best of all is the convenience. As summer slinks toward Labor Day, and you’re running around outside trying to enjoy every last drop of sun, these cans are happy to come along. On camping trips, out in the canoe, on the links, at the beach — they’re compact, unbreakable, and ready to drink. (With luck, you’ll also soon be seeing Archer’s Ale on airplanes.) Of course, it’s what’s in the can that’s key. And Archer’s Ale is a beaut. Pour it into a glass and you’ll see it’s a gorgeous, deep brown-amber. Balanced and rich, with pleasing caramel notes and a toasted-nutty finish, it’s an exemplary English-style ale. Sure, it’s delish in a pint glass. But feel free to enjoy it right from the can. Just remember: this is good beer. Don’t crush the empty on your forehead. Available for about $7 for six 12-ounce cans at Downtown Wine & Spirits, 225 Elm Street, in Somerville, (617) 625-7777; and at select Kappy’s stores.
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