Several years back when I was studying in Ireland, I told a new acquaintance that I’d grown up in Maine. It’s sort of near Boston, I said. "Aw, I love Boston!" she chirped. "Great crack over there!" Whah?! It took a second or two before she grasped the illicit secret I thought she was indulging. But she quickly enlightened me: craic is a Gaelic term that, loosely translated, means fun, laughter, partying — good times. She was right; Boston does have great craic (until 2 a.m., at least). And now that the Briar Group — proprietor of several of the Hub’s innumerable Irish pubs — has introduced its own signature beer, the Craic is great too. A honey-sweet lager, the Craic is an effulgent golden color with a florid, aromatic nose. Its lacy head lingers just a moment before fading back into buttery effervescence that enlivens its assertive fruity flavors (apple, citrus), balanced with just the right amount of hop bitterness. Light but intensely flavorful, it’s a great session beer. In short, as a Dubliner might well proclaim, it’s effin’ brilliant. No translation needed there. Available for about $4 per pint at Kinvara (34 Harvard Avenue, in Allston; 617-783-9400), the Harp (85 Causeway Street, in Boston; 617-742-1010), Ned Devine’s (Faneuil Hall Marketplace, in Boston; 617-248-8800), and Sólás (710 Boylston Street, in Boston; 617-933-4803).
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