If you’re reading this paper, you’re probably aware there’s an election going on. But in case you’ve forgotten, the folks at Magic Hat Brewery would like to remind you that participatory government depends on, well, your participation. Theme beers can be annoying. If not done well, they just reek of gimmickry. Happily, Magic Hat does them well. This past summer it released a limited-edition tribute to Bill "Spaceman" Lee that was a delectable example of a hoppy summer ale. And in 2001, Magic Hat put out a light American pale ale called "Jeezum Jim" in honor of a fellow Vermonter, the folksy senator Jim Jeffords, whose crisis of conscience led him to defect from the GOP. In keeping with the political theme, Magic Hat’s newest brew aims to get out the vote. A "declaration of interdependence between the health of the commonwealth and the will of the people to patronize their polling places," Participation is released in conjunction with HeadCount, a nonprofit, nonpartisan organization aiming to get rock-music fans registered (check ’em out at www.headcount.org). But ironically, though Magic Hat founder Alan Newman appears on the label with pint bottle in hand, pointing his finger and all decked out as Uncle Sam (or a cross between Uncle Sam and Jerry Garcia), this is an English-style ale, a London Brown. And a fine one, at that. It pours crisply translucent, a deep and stately ruby-sienna. A bready, semisweet odor wafts from the tannish head, then a sip and a savor reveal the rounded sweetness brought on by its chocolate and dark-crystal malts. It’s a restrained riot of earthy confectionary: hints of brown sugar, maple, toffee, and coffee — even, if you concentrate, chocolate-covered raisins and malted-milk balls. And it’s all tempered with the understated bite of fuggles hops. If that doesn’t get you into the booth, we don’t know what will. Magic Hat Participation is available for $2.95 for a 22-ounce bottle at Downtown Wine & Spirits, 225 Elm Street, in Somerville. Call (617) 625-7777.
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