In the cosmology of the Letts and the Kurs, the early tribes of the Baltic region, Perkuno was the god of thunder. It’s fitting that a big and brawny porter like this would be named for him. Approach it reverently, and it’ll bestow good things on you; abuse it or disrespect it, and this hammer will strike you down with great vengeance and furious anger. A product of New Jersey’s Heavyweight Brewing Company, this brown-black brew is in keeping with its creator’s mandate to "make big beers in small batches." At 8.3 percent ABV, with a consistency roughly comparable to Primorsk crude oil, it is indeed a big beer. While it’s technically a porter, in flavor and potency Perkuno’s Hammer isn’t too dissimilar from a Russian Imperial stout (so named for the way its high ABV allowed it to keep during the long journey from 18th-century England, through the Baltics, and on to czarist Russia). It’s similarly intense, with a deep, smoky flavor tempered with a smack of semisweet chocolate and hints of black currant, even kirsch-soaked cherries. There’s a little spice, and the burnt kick of a potent espresso. For fans of deep, dark, complex, and potent beers, this is about as good as it gets, a phenomenal interpretation of a delicious, seldom-seen style. But do take care. It’s called Perkuno’s Hammer, but that doesn’t mean you have to get smashed. Perkuno’s Hammer Imperial Porter is available for $7.99 for a four-pack of 12-ounce bottles at Bauer Wine & Spirits, 330 Newbury Street, in Boston; call (617) 262-0363. It will also be showcased at the Extreme Beer Festival, on January 29 at the Cyclorama, 539 Tremont Street, in Boston. Advance tickets are available at Bauer Wine & Spirits for $20.
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