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Perkuno’s Hammer Baltic Porter
Nails it!
BY MIKE MILIARD
Previous Columns

In the cosmology of the Letts and the Kurs, the early tribes of the Baltic region, Perkuno was the god of thunder. It’s fitting that a big and brawny porter like this would be named for him. Approach it reverently, and it’ll bestow good things on you; abuse it or disrespect it, and this hammer will strike you down with great vengeance and furious anger.

A product of New Jersey’s Heavyweight Brewing Company, this brown-black brew is in keeping with its creator’s mandate to "make big beers in small batches." At 8.3 percent ABV, with a consistency roughly comparable to Primorsk crude oil, it is indeed a big beer. While it’s technically a porter, in flavor and potency Perkuno’s Hammer isn’t too dissimilar from a Russian Imperial stout (so named for the way its high ABV allowed it to keep during the long journey from 18th-century England, through the Baltics, and on to czarist Russia). It’s similarly intense, with a deep, smoky flavor tempered with a smack of semisweet chocolate and hints of black currant, even kirsch-soaked cherries. There’s a little spice, and the burnt kick of a potent espresso.

For fans of deep, dark, complex, and potent beers, this is about as good as it gets, a phenomenal interpretation of a delicious, seldom-seen style. But do take care. It’s called Perkuno’s Hammer, but that doesn’t mean you have to get smashed.

Perkuno’s Hammer Imperial Porter is available for $7.99 for a four-pack of 12-ounce bottles at Bauer Wine & Spirits, 330 Newbury Street, in Boston; call (617) 262-0363. It will also be showcased at the Extreme Beer Festival, on January 29 at the Cyclorama, 539 Tremont Street, in Boston. Advance tickets are available at Bauer Wine & Spirits for $20.


Issue Date: January 28 - February 3, 2005
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