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Allagash Odyssey
It's epic
BY MIKE MILIARD
Previous Columns

Last fall, Portland, Maine’s Allagash Brewing Company rolled out its Curieux, a Belgian-style tripel ale aged for eight weeks in used Jim Beam bourbon barrels. The results were sublime: a pungently aromatic golden-yellow elixir smelling of sweetly smoky bourbon with spice and vanilla notes. Now, head brewer Rob Tod has outdone himself once again. Allagash Odyssey is a wine-dark, foam-capped sea of mystery and intrigue. Navigate its complexities and great rewards will be yours.

This time it’s a dubbel, deep and ruby-brown, sloshed into wooden casks and aged for months. The oaky essence that slumber imparts is there from the start, as is a faint tang of wet hay. But there’s a pleasing spicy sweetness at work, too, almost like a spicy cola. Then, from the woodwork, more flavors emerge. Brown liquor and black licorice. A hint of vanilla. Nuts. Raisins. All swirl together like the eddies of Charybdis for a sublime, symphonic whole. But beware, sailor: Odyssey weighs in at 10 percent ABV. Circe’s spells turned men to swine; take care with this one or it may do the same.

Available for $14 for a 750-milliliter bottle at Downtown Wine & Spirits, 225 Elm Street, in Somerville. Call (617) 625-7777.


Issue Date: May 13 - 19, 2005
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