Back in the day, East Boston boasted a heavenly expanse of public park known as Wood Island. Nearby, the modest Betty Ann’s Food Shop served up old-style doughnuts, puff pastries, and checkerboard cakes. Eventually, Logan Airport assimilated the park. And today, in what some Bostonians consider blasphemy, Wood Island is commemorated as a T station.

But Betty Ann’s is still there, dating back to when corner stores stood on every other block. Opened in 1931, it was helmed by the Scantlebury family and third-generation Bill Jr., hailing from Cornwall, still runs the place.

The Cornish influence, combined with several decades of love and sweat, make the pastries a local favorite. Coal still fuels the cast-iron, Dutch crown oven. Dough is still made from scratch, from recipes that Scantlebury’s grandfather accumulated as an apprentice. The results are weighty, jelly-crammed doughnuts crusted with granulated sugar (35 cents) and proper scones (60 cents) that would make a Brit homesick. And Scantlebury still spends Friday nights simmering homemade baked beans to sell on Saturday morning (90 cents/pint; $1.80/quart). The too-sweet canned stuff simply doesn’t compare.

In fact, very little at Betty Ann’s has suffered change. Scantlebury still uses the same mechanical cash register. The shop is still open for a only few hours in the morning (roughly 7 to 10 am) and closed on Mondays. The minimal décor has been left mostly untouched, except for the removal of the potbelly stove that kept customers toasty.

Eastie long ago bade farewell to its beloved park, its myriad corner stores, and its cobblestone streets. But a trip to Betty Ann’s for a lemon square or Danish is almost enough to conjure up the sight and sound of the trackless trolley rumbling down Bennington Street.

Almost.

Betty Ann’s Food Shop is located at 565 Bennington Street, in East Boston. Call 617.567.1479.