Sel de la Terre scones
by Alex Shapiro
Every morning around 5 a.m. at Sel de la Terre, a bleary-eyed pastry chef
washes his hands and hunkers down to make the scones. First, butter is cut and
grated by hand. Then the cream is mixed by hand. Each scone is formed by hand.
(Even the cassia cinnamon is dried by hand.) All told, nary a mechanical part
will ever touch the product, and this, they say, is the secret to the cakey
crumble that makes these scones good enough to write about. Apple-hazelnut,
maple-pecan, cassia-chunk, and the obligatory currant scone cost $2.50 each in
the restaurant's boulangerie; homemade toppings like orange marmalade, rhubarb
jam, and plum or raspberry jellies cost an extra 50 cents; and clotted cream
can be made available for the truly hard-core. Sel de la Terre is located at
255 State Street (Long Wharf), in Boston; call (617) 720-1300.
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