April 17, 2002
We’ve completed the first part of our mission. As much as I’d like to discuss what we did, our actions are still considered secret. If you’re annoyed by that, just think how my family and friends feel. All I can say is that I’m sure that our activities saved the lives of many people on both sides of the conflict. There is a follow-up job on the books, but we’ve earned 48 hours’ leave.
Yesterday was Israel’s Memorial Day. I was glad to be in uniform. I think it was the best way to honor the memory of those who gave their lives protecting this country. Last night, my team celebrated as a group by lighting candles, reciting poetry, and singing songs. On our own, in quiet solitude, many of us think about the friends we’ve lost over the years.
Today, I’m traveling to Eilat with my best buddy, Uri, and his pregnant wife, Tali. Uri, a cadet in the Foreign Service who has nearly finished his doctorate in Middle Eastern studies, is also serving in the reserves. We both have time off for good behavior, and we plan to make the most of it. On the way, there is little talk about the army or the political situation. Mostly, we reminisce about a road trip we took to the American Southwest several years ago. He remembers a daylong water hike in Zion National Park, and I remember a tremendous gal I met briefly in Santa Fe.
By the time we check into our rooms, it’s nearly midnight. In Israel, that’s considered the optimal time to go out, since people play until dawn. I’m especially curious to see how Eilat, a remote southern city built for those who love the sun and thrive on decadent behavior, has weathered the storm. Eilat has long been a playpen for both Israelis and Europeans. Set on the gorgeous waters of the Red Sea far from all the politics up north, it has always served as a sanctuary for those seeking escape. I am reminded of Key West. The city usually has a cosmopolitan feel, with all the Scandinavians, Germans, Brits, and Americans who come to swim, scuba, drink, hike, and dance. Many of the hotels appear packed and lots of people are walking about, eating in restaurants and sitting in pubs. But we don’t see a single foreign tourist. Eilat hasn’t been the target of a terrorist attack, but obviously the situation has caused tourists to look to other warm ports for relaxation by the beach. Too bad. I’m partial to Scandinavians.
We end up at a place called the Monkey Bar. At the entrance are wooden carvings of three monkeys that bear no resemblance to Curious George. They are my old friends See-No-Evil, Hear-No-Evil, and Speak-No-Evil. Of all the pubs on the seemingly endless boardwalk, this is the only one filled with people. Considering the totems outside, it seems appropriate. The customers range in age from 18 to 55, and everyone seems to be having a good time. In general, Israelis aren’t big drinkers. They love to hang out in pubs, talking with friends and dancing until dawn, but they are more likely to drink plain orange juice than a screwdriver. The band features local bad boys and a British good girl playing the kind of mix that keeps Israelis on the dance floor. In Israel, ABBA, house, Billy Joel, Madonna, and trance live together in harmony. We have lots of fun.
The next day, the fatigue from all that walking in army boots and sleep deprivation takes its revenge. I nod off for 10 hours; usually I sleep five. I’m hopeful that the success of our operation will enable us to finish up in a matter of days, not weeks. After I wake up, we spend the rest of our time in Eilat sitting in the sun. I lose at backgammon, Uri loses at cards, and Tali wins a massage. Everyone is happy. Too soon, it seems, we have to return to Jerusalem. We need to get back to the army early the next day.
April 19, 2002
In the morning, we put on our uniforms and boots, feel our knapsacks press against our backs, and sling our weapons over our shoulders. Uri kisses Tali goodbye and we are off. He and I part at the central bus station. We give each other a hug and promise to be in touch via cell phone.
I buy a paper and am upset by news that the Europeans have eagerly embraced the unfounded Palestinian claim that there was a massacre in Jenin. The facts speak for themselves. Only 95 out of more than 1000 homes were destroyed. About 50 Palestinians were killed in what even they characterize as fierce fighting. But the Palestinians’ accusation doesn’t surprise me. They have continuously lied to their own people in order to incite violence against Israel. And I’m never surprised when they employ lies and exaggeration to provoke the Arab states, the Europeans, and the Americans into pressuring Israel. I reserve my anger for the international media and the European government officials who accept patent lies at face value. As a matter of course, the Palestinians make obscene accusations. Then, as a matter of course, the world press, European government officials, and the UN are all too happy to treat every unverified claim as if it were true.
When Israelis hear all the hoopla about Jenin, mostly coming from Europe and the Arab world, they shake their heads in frustration. Israelis figure that Europeans blame Israel for bad behavior because they want to create a sense of equivalence that will alleviate the guilt they feel about European atrocities committed during World War II. Most Israelis think that European leaders are hostage to Arab oil and money or are possessed by the residual anti-Semitism that has reared its ugly head over the last few weeks. Whatever the reason, the Europeans’ eagerness to blame Israel is so knee-jerk that few Israelis take their comments seriously. When it comes down to it, Israelis care only what America thinks. That’s due, in part, to American military, economic, and political aid, but the reasons run much deeper than that. Israelis feel a real bond with America. Not only are both countries thriving democracies, but both nations were created by immigrants who wanted to make new lives for themselves, free of persecution. As a result, both countries share common challenges, such as assimilating newcomers, and common strengths, such as building dynamic cultures that foster social mobility under conditions of complete political freedom. As with our personal lives, we really care only what our friends think. For this reason, when President Bush says he understands Israel’s need to combat terrorism, many Israelis listen and are grateful.
April 24, 2002
I hear the first rumble of a happy rumor: "We’re going home!" I’m glad that our efforts have paid off and that the quiet the country has felt over the last couple of weeks seems to be holding. Before I know it, we are all hugging each other goodbye, saying how much we hope we won’t be seeing each other in green again anytime soon. If the terror continues unabated after the military leaves the Palestinian cities, we will probably have to return. But for now, I look forward to many hours in a real bed and several good meals. I’ve been living on cucumbers and vacuum-packed salami for the past couple of weeks, and I’m aching for a juicy steak.
April 25, 2002
Staying again with my friend Uri and his wife Tali, I’m all about sleeping. When I arise, I coerce them to join me at one of my old haunts, a restaurant-bar called the Shanty. It has some of the best food in Jerusalem, it’s patronized by some of the city’s best and brightest, and its bar is stocked with a wide variety of Belgium beers. The Shanty, like so many other places, has an armed guard searching everyone who enters. I am surprised to see that the place is packed. We ask the waitress if the spot has remained busy in spite of the situation, and she tells us that even though it has fared pretty well all along, there has been a decided increase in customers since Operation Defensive Shield began. Going out, it’s obvious that more people are venturing forth and feeling safe. For the most part, they don’t have any illusions about their vulnerability, but they believe that the military neutralized many of those who threatened to kill Israeli civilians. Most think that posting the military on the outskirts of Palestinian cities greatly diminishes the Palestinians’ capacity to strike. This conviction rings true when you consider that terrorist attacks have been attempted almost daily since the pullout. Luckily, almost all of them have been thwarted. Now in closer proximity to the terrorists, the military is better able to gather intelligence and create a buffer between Palestinian terrorists and Israeli civilians. Knowing that, people feel they can have a couple of drinks and enjoy a good meal without wondering if they are risking their lives. It feels good to know that I was a part of making that possible.
NOW THAT I’m back in the states, I am more confident than ever that the Israeli people will continue to thrive. In spite of all the violence, they are living full and productive lives entirely focused on the important things: finding and keeping a good job, great friends, and a loving partner. It will take time before Israelis feel completely comfortable going out, but they will resist Palestinian attempts to inflict the worst kind of damage. They will resist by enjoying the theater, meeting at cafés, and living the dream Jews have held dear for more than two thousand years: creating a vibrant Jewish nation in our ancient homeland, Israel. The Palestinians must accept that Israelis love their country and will fight, if necessary with bullets, to live in peace. The Palestinians’ failure to understand this has led to two more years of conflict and death. All they have gained is further hardship for both peoples, and what they have lost is the trust of Israelis like me who hoped for the best and experienced the worst. If the Palestinian leadership does not change its fundamental understanding of Israel’s place in the Middle East, then we can, unfortunately, expect further violence. The Palestinians will continue to attack, and Israel will continue to defend. And all that violence will be for nothing, because in the end, sooner or later, we’ll find ourselves exactly where we could have been at Camp David two years ago.
Adam Harmon is senior copywriter for a large high-tech firm. He is currently working on a thriller based on his experiences as an Israeli Special Forces operator. He can be reached at adamdharmon@hotmail.com
