The Malling of Central Square

Part 5

by Jason Gay

El Sayed El Toury, too, wants what's best for Central Square, but he also wants to stay. Toury owns and operates the A&S Diner at the center of the business block targeted for demolition. Unless the Trust's proposal is stopped, Toury says he's likely to be gone from the area before the end of this winter.

"I like these people, I like this neighborhood," Toury says. "But I don't think I'll be able to afford the rent."

The A&S Diner is the kind of place you can get two eggs, home fries, bacon, toast, and coffee for $2.95 -- less than the cost of a grande Frappuccino at Starbucks. It's not a pretentious kind of place -- here, linoleum is fashionable, and the mustard is yellow, not Dijon -- but it attracts a steady and flow of loyal businesspeople, senior citizens, and students from MIT and Harvard. Toury is here every day from 6 a.m. until 5 p.m.

The A&S moved to Central Square three years ago from Roxbury, where Toury's father started it in 1947. It's always been a family business, Toury says -- like many of the surrounding businesses in Central Square.

Toury says he's already been hit once by the economic fallout from local politics. The loss of rent control meant the loss of dozens of customers, who were forced to leave the neighborhood because of climbing rents. "People came in and said they had to leave because their rent went from $400 to $1000," Toury says. "How could they continue to live here?"

What can be done? After all, the Trust wants to break out the bulldozers before spring. Among activists, there is hope that the city can be convinced to take over the Trust building by eminent domain. Perhaps city leaders can forge partnerships with small businesses to reduce rents and allow people like Toury to remain in Central Square. But those are long shots. Lying down in front of the wrecking-ball operator might be a more practical option.

A customer pays for a meatball sub at the counter. He's heard about the development and the demolition, and he's pissed. He can't stand to see Central Square change. "I won't let 'em do it, Sy -- I won't let 'em kick you out," the customer says. "I'll chain myself to the front door if I have to."

Toury smiles and says nothing. When the customer leaves, he looks outside at the late afternoon, post-work crowd milling near the T bus stop.

"It's getting so there's no place left to go," Toury says. He swipes a cloth across the counter. "Really, where am I going to go?"

Back to part 4

Jason Gay can be reached at jgay[a]phx.com.