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Summer wine adventures for less than $10
by David Marglin
As I write this, the temperature isn't really conducive to thinking about
summer wines. But I've cranked up the heat to put myself in the right frame of
mind to answer the question: what wines are best for hot
summer nights and
days?
One of the joys of summer is getting out and doing different things -- in other
words, voyaging. And as I've talked about summer wines with various friends
around town, it has occurred to me that summer is a season for adventures in
wine, too: a great time to try something new.
Summer food, after all, is different. Summer means outdoor grilling, more
spices, more salsas and peppers and corn and chutney. It means lots of emphasis
on veggies and on seafood. We're beach creatures 'round these parts -- we go to
the Islands and the North and South Shores; to Maine and New Hampshire and
Little Compton and the Cape. We go to the restaurants on the waterfront. And by
the water when the weather's really nice, we want wines that taste good a
little cold. (Champagne
is always appropriate, and in an upcoming column I'll
check out some grand sparkling wines from various parts of the world, including
Spain and Italy.) What we want in the summertime, in short, is to be refreshed,
rejuvenated by wine.
This always works better when the wines and foods are well matched. The problem
is, we don't want to work too hard at guessing whether we might like something.
We buy wine in a store we know and then bring it with us to wherever we spend
the weekend. We can't afford surprises. So we buy what we know, merlots and
chards, or maybe go a little wild and grab a sauvignon blanc, or a cab franc,
or a pinot noir. In summertime, we keep it straight and narrow, solid line
drives. We play it safe.
And according to almost every wine person I talked to, we are making a big
mistake. There are so many rewarding wines out there for the adventurous.
Indeed, there are some pretty out-there values out there. And because you are
visiting friends, or sharing, or traveling, chances are you are exploring
plenty of different foods. You want your wines a tad out there.
So I've hunted down some unbelievable, kicking summer wines, all but one less
than $10, for you to boldly go to the shore with, to drink when you feel the
heat. They'll do equally well near a lake or by the ocean. (If you're truly
trapped in the city, try turning on a garden hose.)
Note: don't try to pull these wines off with overly fancy foods. These are for
pastas, for stir-fries, for grilled corn on the cob. They're for crab cakes and
fried clams and wieners.
These wines are bargains you almost can't afford not to try, because if you
like them, not only will you save yourself dollars and impress your friends,
but you'll also enjoy exotic and enticing wine pairings. Meanwhile, you'll be
getting into the spirit of summer in New England and having your own bona fide
grand wine adventures. Some of these are unusual, but I found them all at the
Wine Cask, in Somerville.
1998 Paul Lapandery & Fils Côte Roannaise ($6.99). A vivacious
gamay (think Beaujolais) from a province to the west of Burgundy. Though it
would be unlawful under strict French regulations for this wine to contain any
pinot noir, it does have the complexity and aromas of something other than
gamay. A light fruity wine that might like a bit of a chill on it. Great with
seafood or burgers, and very bright on the palate.
1998 Chateau Villerambert Julien Minervois ($6.99). A sharp rosé,
made from grenache and syrah. Lots of pep and verve, very deep fruit. Tastes of
rhubarb and strawberry, along with some pepper and jasmine. Maybe even a hint
of licorice. Sort of an all-purpose wine, one that would do as well with a
white pizza as it would with fried clams or crab cakes. A kick.
1998 Clos des Briords Muscadet de Sèvre & Maine Sur Lie (Loire)
($8.99). A cheery wine, clean flavors, citrus zest, great with shellfish or
chicken stir-fry with Oriental spices (teriyaki or soy). A very light wine,
refreshing cold, with a really nice pop on the finish. Good buy.
1998 Domaine de Beaurenard Côtes du Rhône ($9.99). Soft and
full, good balance,
ample fruit. You can taste the pepper of the syrah, but the
predominant flavors are cherries and blackberries. Appealing and eminently
approachable wine, great with steaks or burgers.
1997 Chateau de Cruzeau (Pessac-Léognan) ($13.99). Wow! I know,
this is more than $10. But you will taste the extra dollars. Unbelievable
sauvignon blanc-sémillon blend (85 percent-15 percent). Lush
and creamy, some vanilla,
sumptuous fruit flavors. Just a honey. With salmon,
fried clams, cod, or scrod. God, this wine is really good. Go for it!
David Marglin can be reached at wine[a]phx.com.
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