Anna's Taquería

A Mexican fave crosses the (Cambridge) border

by Steve Almond

on the cheap

Friendly Eating Place July 6 Vanille June 29 Joe's Café, June 22 Pita Kabob, June 15

Addicts of this venerated Brookline mini-chain will be happy to know that they can now get a fix across from the Porter Square T station. Anna's third location is roomier than the first two (read: less cozy) but features the same tasty, freshly prepared Mexican staples. The essential culinary equation -- fat = flavor -- prevails here, as might be expected. The carnitas quesadilla ($2.95) is the perfect case in point. Grilled to the point of wanton greasiness, and stuffed with roast pork, cheese, cilantro-intensive salsa, and hot sauce, this is the kind of shameless pleasure that will be worth every pimple. The steak super burrito ($3.75) includes an awesome helping of marinated meat, rice, beans (black or red), cheese, and salsa. Wrapped in the shape of a small pillow, these suckers weigh roughly as much as a small barbell.

Unfortunately, tacos are not Anna's strong suit. The corn tortillas tend to get soggy and/or mealy if not eaten immediately; nothing against the fillings, which are uniformly flavorful. Despite the grease-stained bags, the tortilla chips (75 cents) lack the lardy tang and snap of fresh-fried, though they'll do just fine as a complement to Anna's fresh, chunky guacamole, which is shot through with onions ($1). It's hard to call Anna's fare inspired. Cheap and dependable would be more accurate, which is why the joint is proving popular with the college crowd. A word to the wise, then: order your burritos with sour cream and guacamole. The extra 85 cents will make all the difference.

Anna's Taquería, located at 822 Somerville Avenue, in Cambridge, is open daily from 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. Call (617) 661-8500.

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