Out of the Blue

Somerville's seafood spot

by Nancy Kalajian

on the cheap

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Out of the Blue came out of nowhere, but it seems destined to go places. It's a small, happenin' spot (just like its predecessor, the late-night Dolly's) whose focus is on fresh fish dishes accompanied by pasta or salad. The most expensive luncheon fare is the fried fisherman's platter, for $11. All other lunch items are under $10. In other words, not bad.

The restaurant offers nine "pasta specialties," made with your choice of five sauces: red, scampi, fra diablo, white, or pink (a combo of white and red). The portions are huge: I was famished when I ordered the calamari and linguini ($7), a plate full of calamari cooked with just enough garlic and white sauce, but I still ended up walking out with a doggy bag. During my second visit, we ordered two crab cakes that were unusually moist and served with a mustard-caper-shallot-chardonnay sauce. They were okay, but we were thrilled with the New England clam chowder (cup $2.50; bowl $4), a great variation on this standard that was just the right consistency -- it wasn't overly thickened -- and served dotted with dill.

Just like the rare species of crab pictured on the restaurant's mellow, ocean-themed mural, this new addition to Davis Square's culinary spread may be an uncommon breed.

Out of the Blue, located at 382 Highland Avenue, in Somerville, is open for lunch Monday through Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. Dinner is served Monday through Saturday from 2 to 10 p.m. and on Sunday from 4 to 10 p.m. Call (617) 776-5020.

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