Rhône rage

Varietals are the spice of life

by David Marglin

UNCORKED

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In the past decade, the long-neglected wines of France's Rhône Valley have been enjoying a surge in popularity. This was sparked in part by Robert Parker, the influential critic who "rediscovered" the Rhône in the '80s, and in part by the "Rhône Rangers" -- the loose group of California winemakers who pioneered Rhône varieties in America.

But the Rhône renaissance has been mostly in reds -- chiefly syrah, which is finally coming into its own all over the world. White Rhône varietals, on the other hand, are still strangers to most wine drinkers. This is partly because so many Americans who drink white wine think and drink only chardonnay. It may also be because there's a perception that Americans haven't been particularly successful in growing the grapes.

It's true that New World growers have had relatively little experience finding ideal growing sites and fine-tuning the fruit. But at their best, white Rhône grapes -- whether from the Rhône itself or from the Rhône Rangers -- can make wine that's fruity and floral, deep and subtle, vibrant and refreshing, and a wonderful accompaniment to a range of foods.

Of the three primary grapes used in white Rhônes -- viognier, marsanne, and roussanne -- viognier has the most exclusive pedigree, being the only grape used in the rare Rhône white Condrieu. It's also considered quite hard to grow; one critic has even suggested that until now, viogniers made outside the Rhône valley were a "dismal failure." But I'd dispute that. Before 1980, there were fewer than 75 acres of viognier grown in the entire world; today there are at least 2700 acres planted, and a lot of the growers are producing great wines -- just without big wineries (or big marketing budgets) to back them up.

Marsanne and roussanne provoke similar disagreements. According to one Napa winery owner, neither grape works yet here in the US. She contends the wines are always imbalanced and too fruity for her taste -- in other words, not refined enough. Again, I disagree. There are plenty of good American roussannes, and although many of the best are hard to find (Cline's award-winner, for instance, can be obtained only from the winery in Sonoma), some are widely available. Zaca Mesa, for instance, makes a pleasant version that sells at Martignetti's (and elsewhere) for around $17, and there are some excellent roussanne-based blends, such as Terre Rouge's Enigma.

Along with the American newcomers, a number of Rhône grape varieties are being planted in France outside the Rhône valley. Mas de Daumas Gassac makes an excellent Rhône-style blend, which has peaches and hints of pears and lilacs, and is a solid wine year in and year out; the 1997 is on the shelves right now and it rocks, even for 30 bucks. Also, in France's Languedoc region, where a lot of bulk and table wines were traditionally made, excellent viogniers are being churned out -- very engaging and most affordable.

In the Rhône itself, you pretty much can't go wrong with the leading white wines from the past couple of years, though many of these will need a couple of years to settle down. On the other hand, Rhône varietals from outside the Rhône -- whether Californian, Virginian (Horton makes a splendid viognier that shows up on many wine lists), or French -- are often best drunk after only a year or so in the bottle.

The key to appreciating these intriguing wines is deploying them properly. They all tend to be fruity, verging on sweet, which makes them wonderful accompaniments to big, piquant foods such as Cajun tuna or spicy grilled pork. The viogniers tend to be tropical, which makes them nice on hot summer days; they have so much audacious taste when young that serving them quite chilled won't inhibit their flavor, as can happen with meeker wines. Roussanne tends to be a lot rounder and more nutty -- indeed, almonds and a good roussanne are an unbelievable combination.

They say variety is the spice of life, and drinking more than one or two white varietals can make life -- and many a meal -- a heck of a lot spicier. So don't be a stranger to the white Rhônes.

Lurton Les Salices Viognier 1997 Vin de Pays D'Oc ($9.99, Martignetti's). Nothing but zesty lemons and a zinging flavor. Not stylish, but quite effective in its straightforward way. One to serve cold on a hot summer's eve while watching the stars appear in the sky. A sleeper.

Terre Rouge 1997 Enigma Amador County ($14.99, Wine Cask). An enticing and intriguing wine, with apricots, almonds, and flowery notes. A blend of roussanne, viognier, and marsanne, this sexy number seduces you from first smell to full finish. A winner at this price (or twice that).

Zaca Mesa 1997 Roussanne Santa Barbara ($18.99, Martignetti's). Lovely wine, very smooth and silky, not a flavor bomb, but ever so refreshing. There's a bit of lemon zest up front, then a little crème brûlée behind it. A very nice, unintimidating wine, worth getting to know.

Jaffurs Viognier 1997 Santa Barbara (about $24, Martignetti's). Who says viognier isn't fully realized and classy in California? This garage winemaker makes one helluva start-up wine, with plenty of grip and loads of peach. A delight.

Mas de Daumas Gassac 1997 Vin de Pays de l'Heurault ($29.99, Wine Cask). A stylish, full wine, lots of flowers and honeysuckle, a hint of crème brûlée -- altogether a potent beverage. Full and long on the tongue, this wine sings a sweet song that is not easily forgotten.

David Marglin can be reached at wine[a]phx.com.

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