Vino paradiso

An "off-the-dial" year for Italian reds

by David Marglin

UNCORKED

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George Bardis, chief wine guy at Martignetti's, puts it bluntly: "Italian reds are not for everyone." But, as George would no doubt agree, if you do like Italian reds, there is no better time to buy them than now.

Twenty years ago, no one would have thought of Italy as a region for fine wines. Yes, some were made, but they were few and hard to find. The '90s have seen an Italian winemaking renaissance as more growers have started to keep yields down and use modern techniques in their vineyards.

The sheer range of Italian wines can be intimidating. At the top of the pyramid are the big Barolos and Barbarescos, made from the super-potent nebbiolo grape. Then there are the wines called "super Tuscans," a newer category of wines made in the Chianti region from cabernet sauvignon and sangiovese grapes. The uncanny Brunello di Montalcino is made from a particular clone of sangiovese. And that's just up at the high end. Lower down are Chiantis and Chianti Classicos, barberas from Alba and Asti, merlots, and lots of other wines worth exploring.

It can be confusing territory, but one thing is making it simple right now: the high quality of 1997 wines. Even for Italian carafe wines, 1997 was "off the dial," according to wine critic Robert Parker. It was a perfect year from start to finish, and I have yet to try a bad 1997 Italian wine.

Not only was 1997 a great year across the board, but it was also abundant. That means prices for the more affordable wines will remain, well, affordable. You can do incredibly well for between $10 and $30, and one wine that blew my mind actually costs less than $10. Indeed, for under $10, there are no better-quality reds than those now coming out of Italy.

The bad news is that with all the hype (and there's been a lot -- Italians, e.g. Roberto Benigni, are masters of promotion), prices for the finer Italian wines have risen, and over time, stores and distributors will likely start jacking prices up on the less stratospheric wines as well. So you might want to stock up now.

The latest word from VinItaly '99, one of the world's largest wine events, is that the 1998s are every bit as good as the '97s. This creates an interesting situation. (How do you say "glut" in Italian?) Among the big aged reds -- the Barolos and Barbarescos and Brunellos -- '95 and '96 vintages will be priced to sell, as retailers make way for the big '97s being released later this year. This means that there will be some pretty good buys on these high-end wines -- but the vintages are uneven, so choose carefully. The best way to do this is by talking to your retailer.

And don't forget about those '97s when you buy: montepulcianos (mainly from the Abruzzi region), barberas, inexpensive Chiantis from Tuscany, and odd wines, like teroldego, grown exclusively in Italy's northernmost region of Trentino, near Austria. (Foradori's 1997 is massive, and a true steal at $14.99 -- but let this monster breathe for a couple hours, or you'll scorch your taste buds. It's at the Wine Cask in Somerville.)

In navigating Italian wines, it's best to get recommendations from someone you trust, and then just bravely sample them all until you find what you like. When you do score, go out and buy a case. These wines will keep, if you can keep them; you can almost hear them calling out to you, "Drink me, drink me." Me, I've fallen for the following wines, all of which are available now, and many of which will sell quickly as wine lovers start to discover their great value.

Cantina del Pino 1997 Barbera d'Alba ($16.99, Martignetti's). This wine is quite romantic, with plenty of ripe plum. A warm wine, with lots of almost jammy qualities, it will keep improving for some months. Still, it rocked me now.

Parusso 1997 Barbera d'Alba Ornati ($19.99, Martignetti's). Soft velvet, medium-bodied, gentle tannins, and decent acidity; not particularly fruity, but some unripe plum.

Erik Banti Carato Rosso Toscano 1997 ($10.99, Martignetti's). Again, proof that George Bardis at Martignetti's is one of Boston's wine geniuses. This blend brings together sangiovese, grenache, and malvasia, and the bright fruit will take your breath away. It was aged in oak for six months, but it hops like it had longer wood exposure. A fun and energy-filled wine, worth seeking out at this price.

Di Majo Sangiovese 1997 Norante ($6.99, Martignetti's). This is the best $7 wine I've had all year. Big, bold, sharp fruity cherries. Amazingly clean, it lingers and keeps on lingering. Seven bucks?!

Ferrando 1997 Nortolo ($12, Hi-Rise Bread Company). Sometimes a wine sneaks up on you, as does this nebbiolo found at a liquor-store-turned-bakery. The massive and concentrated wine shows blackberries up front, then bursts with exotic orchid and otherworldly spices. I said "Wow!" and drained my glass, then held it out for more. A winner at this price, or twice that.

Mazzei Chianti Classico 1997 Fonterutoli ($24.99, Martignetti's). This is 100 percent sangiovese, but you wouldn't believe it unless you read it on the label. It's sort of fruity and none too oaky, a grand accompaniment to robust Italian food. A wine that seems lonely without a bite of antipasti or some red-sauced pasta by its side, it puts out and keeps on putting out

David Marglin can be reached at wine[a]phx.com.

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