Fall forward

How to navigate red-wine season

by David Marglin

UNCORKED

Click here for a rundown of wine tastings, dinners, and events.

It's fall, and that means it's red-wine season again. Now that the heat has broken, most of us will be looking forward to rediscovering all the massive reds that seemed way less appealing while we were sweating it out during the long hot summer.

But which reds? And how much should you spend on them? Obviously, there's no one answer, so it helps to have a strategy for navigating the wine-dark seas. Herewith are a few pointers on hitting the stores.

First, plan ahead and save. As you probably know, most wine stores will give you discounts for cases. Even on mixed cases (that is, 12 bottles of different wines), you can usually get a 10 percent to 15 percent discount. Sometimes you'll even get a discount on six bottles. So if you can, think ahead about what you might want to have on hand, and buy in bulk for the season -- you'll end up paying less in the long run.

Second, think different. The famous reds -- cabernet sauvignon, Bordeaux, Burgundy -- are also famously expensive. All over the world, lesser-known red varietals are fast becoming the most interesting wines -- the kind of wines that will dazzle you as much as the changing leaves. And these can be affordable, too. I'm talking about big, seductive Rhône-style mourvedre wines; malbecs from Argentina; and fruit-laden Spanish serenaders such as garnacha (a/k/a grenache). These are massive cold-weather wines, with bold strong flavors, powerful on the attack. But they are also everyday wines, very versatile, and many of them will go as well with Chinese food as they will with take-out pizza. All these wines have a large degree of edginess.

And as food here in Boston gets bolder and spicier, classic Bordeaux- and Burgundy-style reds are becoming less compelling pairings anyway. Many exotic reds pair well with a larger variety of foods and are more easily approachable when young. As one local wine connoisseur is fond of saying, she takes her champagnes old and her reds young. The recommendations below will get you started.

Because these wines are so far outside the mainstream, I am advising that you start with only a bottle or two of a kind, to ascertain whether you love it. If you do, go back and buy six or 12 bottles. If it's good, prices may go up toward the end of the year. And good wine can disappear from good stores quickly, so you may not have another chance at any price.

Apart from cost savings, another reason to buy a wine you like in bulk, so to speak, is because the only way to get to know a wine well is to keep coming back to it. In order to understand a wine, you have to try it in different contexts. You want to gauge different people's reactions. And you want to feel as though you have enough on hand that you can crack a bottle open without needing a special occasion as an excuse. I would be proud to serve the wines below any day of the week.

1998 J.P. Tinto Periquita ($4, Martignetti). Get out of here! Four bucks? I swear, this is the first wine I have ever liked for less than a Lincoln. Bright, clean, sharp, crisp. No depth, but serve it with a bit of a chill on it and it does just fine. Just a phenomenal wine, and at this price, do not hesitate.

1998 Vino Alarba Calatayud ($5.99, Wine Cask). Another old-vine grenache from a wine region close to Madrid. Imported by the master, Jorge Ordonez, who knows Spanish wines inside and out. When it's this affordable, drink first, ask questions later. If you have any.

1997 Domaine De L'Auris Côtes du Roussillon ($9.99, Wine Cask). A commune wine, low in alcohol. Not deep, but a pleasant sweetness makes this true table wine worth drinking. It won't blow anyone away, but the strawberry finish makes it interesting enough to try.

1997 Casa Castillo Monastrell Jumilla ($9.99, Wine Cask). Monastrell is a clone of mourvedre, and this soft, velvety wine is not only spicy and fruity, but has a great mouth feel. Very elegant, lots of cherry, an unbelievable value for less than a Hamilton.

1995 Priorato Scala Dei El Cipres (Newton Lower Falls Wines, $8.99). A killer Spanish garnacha -- a meaty, chewy, fruit-forward wine. Bring a knife and fork and cut this one up well before you go to work on it. Great, brambly nose. A real wild one, not tamable.

1998 Domaine Andre Brunel Cuvée Sommelongue Côtes du Rhône ($11.99, Wine Cask). A big, bold, spicy, fruity grenache/syrah blend (85 percent the former), this wine will knock your taste buds off. Quite tightly wound, it starts to expand instantly. Buy a case and put it on your table and let everyone be impressed -- without knowing the price. Once they do, they'll beg to know where you got it. You may want to keep that a secret.

1994 Navarro Correas Maipu Mendoza Malbec ($13.99, Wine Cask). Audacious and bodacious, this bottle has aged well. It is very round, but explosive in the corners of your mouth. Tart blackberries and a glycerin aftertaste (with a touch of volatile acidity) make this a very refreshing wine. It can stand to be served colder than room temperature, and it will pair well with pungent fish or stew.

1997 Abadia Retuerta Rivola Sardon de Duero ($11.99, Martignetti). A blend, with 60 percent tempranillo and 40 percent cabernet sauvignon. Very fruity and intense, very lively, very berry, with a lovely little vanilla finish. A stellar value that you will cherish for many years to come. Yum!

1996 Le Plaisir Mas Amiel Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalones ($8.99, Martignetti). 100 percent grenache noir, full-bore power, high voltage, quite massive, with bright blackberry, made from old vines. Lightly oaked, but a tad harsh on the finish. All in all, a fine value for the dollars.

1997 Veramonte Primus Alto de Casablanca ($14.99, Bauer). Chilean merlot-esque wine, from Augustin Hunneus, the erstwhile owner of Franciscan and current owner of renowned Quintessa. Lots of blackberry, very fruity, again not deep, but really ripe and sweet.

David Marglin can be reached at wine[a]phx.com.

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