A staple of Southwestern cuisine, guacamole is most popular as a cool dip for tortilla chips or as a topping for burritos and enchiladas. As any true aficionado of the zesty condiment knows, some versions are much better than others. Many a diner has been gravely disappointed by receiving a bland sort of grayish-green purée trying to pass itself off as the real thing.

No such disappointment lurks at Olé Mexican Grill. Chunky guacamole is prepared to order on a tableside cart with a mortar and pestle. The server begins by muddling together chopped onions, jalapeños, and cilantro. He or she then expertly cuts open ripe avocados, pops out the pits, and spoons the buttery flesh into the bowl. With a fork, the server mashes the avocado into the spicy mixture, adding a scoop of chopped tomatoes and a generous squeeze of fresh lime juice to complete the masterpiece. The result? A bowl of chunky, zippy-but-cool guacamole so fresh and authentic you might think you hear a mariachi band playing in the background.

Available for $9 at Olé Mexican Grill, 11 Springfield Street, in Cambridge. Call (617) 492-4495.