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Rustic Kitchen’s butternut-squash mezzaluna
Autumn on a plate
BY LARYN IVY

Fall in New England. The days are shorter. Trees turn vibrant shades of yellow, orange, and red. Sweaters and jackets come out of storage. And at most restaurants, butternut squash makes its appearance. Whether in the form of a soup, purée, gratin, or mash, no other food better epitomizes the year-end change of seasons and menus than this sweet, rich, versatile orange fruit. And at Rustic Kitchen, chef Bill Bradley pays tribute to this fall essential in his butternut-squash mezzaluna by offering it as a special throughout the season.

Mezzaluna means "half-moon," and that’s exactly what the pasta in this dish looks like. The crescent-shaped pillows are filled with a sumptuous-yet-delicate blend of puréed butternut squash and ricotta cheese. Good enough to eat as is, the rich dish is made even better by the sauce Bradley has created to accent the pasta. Chunks of roasted butternut squash are tossed with earthy roasted mushrooms, sage, fresh spinach, mushroom stock, and decadent brown butter. The light, flavorful concoction, a nice change from the cream-laden sauces that abound today, highlights the sweet butternut squash and the depth of the roasted mushrooms and fresh spinach. The dish is topped off with shavings of ricotta salata — pressed and dried ricotta cheese with a salty, milky taste. The only disappointing aspect of this dish is that there isn’t more of it.

Available for $17 at Rustic Kitchen, Faneuil Hall, Boston, (617) 523-6334; and 1815 Mass Ave, Cambridge, (617) 354-7766.


Issue Date: November 19 - 25, 2004
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