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Spinach-and-artichoke dip
One name, many variations
BY DEIRDRE FULTON

For something ostensibly made with two ingredients, the variations on spinach-and-artichoke dip seem endless — which certainly doesn’t bother me. Maybe it’s the warm, creamy consistency (most versions have a cream-cheese base), or the idea that a couple of vegetables could taste so good, but whatever the reason, I can never get enough of this satisfying appetizer. At restaurants around Boston, it’s become a kind of top-tier bar food, one that’s as popular among friends at a crowded pub as it is before dinner for two. Here are my three picks for the most original and authentic local takes on the mix.

For a Mexi-Cali spin, try the version served at Sunset Cantina and Sunset Grill & Tap, a rich blend that comes smothered in cheese, diced tomatoes, scallions, and sliced olives. On the towering plate (easily split three or four ways), a bowl of dip is surrounded by crispy pita chips, which deserve special mention for holding their own on a plate laden with flavor.

The dip at Bukowski Tavern comes thick with spinach — this is the only version I’ve had where the cream cheese plays more of a supporting role, letting the veggie-herb flavors shine through. It’s accompanied by a basket of crunchy corn-tortilla chips that taste freshly made.

Shredded crabmeat adds another layer of both flavor and texture to the warm starter at Grendel’s Den. This one’s paired with plain ol’ tortilla chips, but the chunky trio of spinach, artichoke, and crab packs enough taste to make up the difference.

Available for $7.95 at Sunset Cantina, 916 Comm Ave, in Brookline, (617) 731-8646, and Sunset Grill & Tap, 130 Brighton Avenue, in Allston, (617) 254-1331; for $7 at Bukowski Tavern, 50 Dalton Street, in Boston, (617) 437-9999, and 1281 Cambridge Street, in Cambridge, (617) 497-7077; and for $6.95 at Grendel’s Den, 89 Winthrop Street, in Cambridge, (617) 491-1160.


Issue Date: January 21 - 27, 2005
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