Sure, the old joke is "real men don’t eat quiche," so one can imagine how some might feel about tartelettes — particularly on a menu that boasts such dishes as Alsatian choucroute, grilled veal T-bone, and roasted venison loin. But at Sandrine’s Bistro, in Harvard Square, chef Raymond Ost prepares an untraditional Alsatian tartelette that should not be missed — even by the most carnivorous, stubbornly manly eater.

Sandrine’s is known for good French food without the pretension, frills, and fuss that sometimes accompany such cuisine. The untraditional Alsatian tartelette, a dinner-menu appetizer, is no exception. A simple combination of sautéed leeks and onions with crispy bacon, tossed in a rich béchamel-like sauce, is baked in a delicate crust until golden and puffy. The warm tartelette is then served over well-dressed fresh greens. The flavors of onion and bacon burst through with every bite — confirming, once again, that bacon makes everything good. It’s a decent portion for an appetizer, but given that you’ll likely have to share it with your dining companions, chances are the plate will be empty before you know it.

Available for $9 at Sandrine’s Bistro, 8 Holyoke Street, in Cambridge. Call (617) 497-5300.