Ah, summer — the time of year when it’s more and more difficult to cover up the consequences of the temptations we yield to. So you go to great heights to escape — particularly to the fourth-floor-situated Blu at the Sports Club/LA. You hunker down, figuring you’ll suffer though some runway-model-size portion of crudités and wash it down with a designer martini. But at Blu, gourmet comes in all sizes and epicurean intensities. Take the house-made smoked mozzarella. A guilty pleasure for all seasons, these four thick-as-a-gearshift breaded pieces of smoked cheese will put to shame any beachside-shack fried dairy product you ever consumed. The smoky essence is accented by a quick dip in either the spicy raw-tomato crema or slightly zingy pignoli-basil pesto. Not your basic bar-food accompaniment, to be sure, so don’t bother trying to resist.

Available for $11 at Blu, Sports Club/LA, 4 Avery Street, in Boston. Call 617. 375.8550.