Whether or not French toast was ever actually French (it wasn’t), its American popularity has made it the kind of hearty breakfast you come to expect at a New England country inn.

At Zaftigs in Coolidge Corner, it’s gotten even heartier. In fact, it’s been stuffed. Not overwhelmingly so, like a Thanksgiving turkey or a twice-baked potato; but sumptuously, like a molten chocolate cake, its warm banana core seeping through the fork-broken crust.

What began as a more substantial version of the colonial pain perdu — "lost bread" restored by dipping it in sweet batter — evolved into infinite adaptations of a filled-and-grilled morning treat. Filling methods vary; some versions resemble a croque monsieur, while others mimic the toad-in-the-hole breakfast classic. Zaftigs employs the latter. The center of its thick slice of challah is scooped out and replaced with a warm, pulpy banana mash that, when combined with the vanilla-bourbon batter, recalls a slice of homemade banana bread.

And as with any great ensemble, the accessories give it an edge. A dollop of sweet-cream date butter is slathered over the warm toast, which is offset by a scattering of fresh blueberries and strawberries. Sweet hints of powdered sugar dust the edges, and a dwarf pitcher of pure maple syrup awaits nearby.

Available for $7.95 at Zaftigs Delicatessen, 335 Harvard Street, in Brookline. Call 617.975.0075.