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Zaftigs Delicatessen’s banana-stuffed French toast
Stuff yourself
BY ELIZABETH BOMZE

Whether or not French toast was ever actually French (it wasn’t), its American popularity has made it the kind of hearty breakfast you come to expect at a New England country inn.

At Zaftigs in Coolidge Corner, it’s gotten even heartier. In fact, it’s been stuffed. Not overwhelmingly so, like a Thanksgiving turkey or a twice-baked potato; but sumptuously, like a molten chocolate cake, its warm banana core seeping through the fork-broken crust.

What began as a more substantial version of the colonial pain perdu — "lost bread" restored by dipping it in sweet batter — evolved into infinite adaptations of a filled-and-grilled morning treat. Filling methods vary; some versions resemble a croque monsieur, while others mimic the toad-in-the-hole breakfast classic. Zaftigs employs the latter. The center of its thick slice of challah is scooped out and replaced with a warm, pulpy banana mash that, when combined with the vanilla-bourbon batter, recalls a slice of homemade banana bread.

And as with any great ensemble, the accessories give it an edge. A dollop of sweet-cream date butter is slathered over the warm toast, which is offset by a scattering of fresh blueberries and strawberries. Sweet hints of powdered sugar dust the edges, and a dwarf pitcher of pure maple syrup awaits nearby.

Available for $7.95 at Zaftigs Delicatessen, 335 Harvard Street, in Brookline. Call 617.975.0075.


Issue Date: July 22 - 28, 2005
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