Choosing dessert at Hamersley’s is not a no-brainer. Between the South End staple’s warm-peaches-and-cream cobbler with vanilla-pink-peppercorn ice cream and its blueberry-lime trifle with a coconut tuile, diners have their work cut out for them. But it is a pretty sweet job.

Modest and understated (much like his signature roast chicken with garlic, lemon, and parsley), Gordon Hamersley’s two-toned souffléd lemon custard sits low and adjective-free on the dessert menu.

Poking through the billowy top layer of lightly browned meringue reveals glossy, velvet (and cheek-puckeringly tart) lemon custard, which separates texturally into the best versions of both custard and soufflé while baking.

And just to quell any lingering doubts about its low-key disposition, the citrus duo is served cafeteria-style — a single helping scooped out of an oversize ramekin. Well, not quite cafeteria-style: linen tablecloths are included.

Available for $8.75 at Hamersley’s Bistro, 553 Tremont Street, in Boston. Call 617.423.2700.