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Radius’s Cinema Paradiso
Paradise on a plate
BY SARAH HEARN

Some chefs know just how to inject a bit of whimsy into a dish without losing something in the translation. At the über-sophisticated Radius, business types will loosen up and couples will get closer when they sample pastry chef P.J. Waters’s Cinema Paradiso for two. A veritable circus on a plate, this dessert combines kiddie favorites with sophisticated flavors and impressive pastry technique. A large, white oval plate displays a smooth milk-chocolate chiboust on a layer of crispy chocolate reminiscent of a Nestlé Crunch bar. A quenelle of popcorn-flavored ice cream — at once salty, sweet, and inflected with the essence of corn — is a perfect foil for the chocolate. For an icy treat, a shot glass holds vibrant-red slush, which owes its intense flavor to Bing cherries. Raisinets, anyone? A small bowl contains hand-dipped chocolate-covered raisins. Finally, a red-and-white-striped box — just like you get at the circus and ball games — holds warm caramel corn. It’s far better than Cracker Jacks, even if there isn’t a prize.

Available for $16 (serves two) at Radius, 8 High Street, in Boston. Call 617.426.1234.


Issue Date: October 28 - November 3, 2005
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