For a few years now, I’ve predicted the current emergence of syrah as the varietal of choice for many of those who favor the $10-to-$30 bottles. Perhaps the most interesting wine made in the US, syrah also offers good value: because so many American syrahs are so new to the table, they do not have the brand identity or the track record to command whopping prices.

So what is syrah, and how did it achieve such prominence here in the United States?

The varietal as we know it originated in the Rhône Valley of Southern France. It is also called shiraz, because the grape is thought to come from Shiraz, Persia, the winemaking city in ancient times. Although it’s the same grape, what wineries call shiraz often involves a fruitier, less earthy style of winemaking. But this has more to do with climate than anything else; syrah that is called shiraz grows in warmer climes, where the fruit almost always ripens (indeed, can over-ripen), whereas what we know as syrah grows in climates where the grapes just barely ripen (usually resulting in the greatest vintages). Finally, syrah should not be confused with petite sirah (sometimes " petit syrah " ), which is actually a French varietal called Durif that is genetically related to syrah and peloursin.

Syrah has been grown in California at least since the turn of the 20th century, although the first US syrah did not appear until 1976, when it was released by the Joseph Phelps vineyard. Many more wineries followed suit in the ’80s and ’90s. In the last 25 years, syrah’s market share has increased enormously (although it still trails zinfandel, cab, and merlot). Today, almost all New World wine regions plant syrah, which may be the fastest-growing red varietal in the world.

In California, syrah now grows just about everywhere. Some Napa syrahs command $40 and $50 release prices; Paso Robles and the central winemaking regions are placing huge bets on the varietal’s success; and Mendocino, Sonoma, and the Sierra Foothills (including Amador County) are all weighing in with serious " contenders " — great wines of complexity, fruit, and charm that give the Aussie and French vintages a run for their money. Winemakers in Washington, Oregon, Long Island, and even Colorado make some excellent syrah.

The huge demand for syrah flows from Americans’ taste for fruity red wines, and from the high marks the varietal has won from so many wine writers. It’s as easy to say as " merlot, " it’s very food-friendly, and it can have a slightly sweet finish, which we Americans have always loved. Also, since syrah was historically a blended wine in the Rhône, winemakers around the world blend it freely, with vital and extremely interesting results.

While top-shelf syrah/shiraz can cost above $100 a bottle, most great bottlings can still be had for under $50, or even less than $20. These versatile wines can wash down spicy foods, making them perfect with lots of Asian and Indian cuisines, as well as their fusion progeny.

These selections offer a syrah sampler.

1999 Martella Hammer Syrah California. Garnering big scores, this is mainly Sierra Foothills juice, blended with some of the cabernets (sauvignon and franc) for a generous range of flavors. Smoky and lush. Plump black- and huckleberry notes make this a winner with fruit-sauce dishes, such as pork tenderloin in a raspberry sauce or venison in a cherry reduction.

1998 Michel-Schlumberger Syrah North Coast (California). Mainly Sonoma fruit, well balanced, affordable, none too lush, but with good black notes; the currants and the licorice caress. Good with spicy fish tacos or chicken skewers (yakitori). Nothing fancy, but darn tasty and easy on both the wallet and the palate.

1999 McDowell Syrah Mendocino. Snappy, peppy, relatively cheap. McDowell has long been a reliable producer, and while some years are better than others, this one is plenty good. Sassy fruit gives as good as it gets, but there’s plenty o’ funk, making it a pizza-burger-fries-barbeque kind of wine.

1999 Green Vineyards Forties Old Block Syrah Victoria (Australia). The Aussie ringer, this is one of my favorite wines ever for under $30. None too sweet, but with velvety, dark plums, sumptuous caramel, loads of new wood. Good with big meat flavors, like a veal chop, boar, or venison. A wild and crazy wine.

1997 Lava Cap Reserve Syrah El Dorado. The first syrah release from these award-winning Sierra Foothills folks, this is a winner on all fronts. The age softens the punch just a touch, but the blow is a knockout nevertheless, with stunning blueberry and boysenberry, some smoke and glycerin, and a hint of black pepper. Worth finding in any of its vintages; put it to work with roast turkey, hamburger, filet mignon, or anything bold and flavorful (but not fish).

1997 Ojai Vineyard Syrah California. Adam Tolmach, one of the original Rhône Rangers who popularized these grapes in the US, makes good, earthy syrahs. One layer of complexity flows into the next: earth, chocolate, black currants, roses. A bewitching wine that lingers beguilingly on the palate. Great with beef, roast pork, venison, or a Sichuan stir-fry.

1999 Dover Canyon Artist Series Reserve. Blueberry-muffin sweet, but with sufficient gravitas to carry the day. A full finish, downright spunky, great with garlicky pasta, pork ribs, or steak. Makes you realize that in time, Paso Robles will become one of the world’s premier syrah regions.

David Marglin can be reached at wine[a]phx.com.