E-Mail This Article to a Friend Back-to-basics brew A return to ‘lawnmower’ beers BY GENEVIEVE RAJEWSKI

Maybe it’s a backlash against the low-carb regime of more heavily marketed light beers, or maybe it’s just the irresistibility of a $2 draft during an economic slump. One thing is for certain: "classic" American beers such as Pabst Blue Ribbon and Schlitz have gone from punch line to de rigueur.

Chris Bol, manager and head of the beer program at Redbones, says the barbecue joint became one of the first local establishments to revive Pabst Blue Ribbon on draft ($2.50) "years and years ago." But over the last year and a half, Bol says, PBR has become wildly popular with the indie-rock set.

The reason?

"PBR is cool. It’s retro," says Bol. "I think it has more to do with this than the quality. Although, personally, I think the quality is better than Bud. It’s a great summertime beer. It’s light, crisp, and refreshing."

Redbones also sells Schlitz in 16-ounce vintage-style "tallboy" cans ($2). Around Boston, this "Beer That Made Milwaukee Famous" seems best positioned to stage the next dramatic comeback. Charlie’s Kitchen added Schlitz tallboy cans ($3) to its menu about three weeks ago; according to assistant manager Rian Adams, "It’s selling really well."

Flat Top Johnny’s has been carrying bottled Schlitz ($2) for nine years. "I think we were one of the first bars around here to start carrying it again," says owner John Adams. "They reformulated Schlitz shortly after that, and I think, flavor-wise, it’s probably the best of the retro beers."

Schlitz proved so popular that Adams added bottled PBR ($2) and bottled Miller Highlife ($2) to the Flat Top Johnny’s menu. PBR is now his best-selling beer. "It consistently outsells Budweiser and Bud Light, which I never thought would be possible," says Adams.

In addition to Schlitz and bottled PBR ($2.50), Charlie’s offers bottled Ballantine Ale ($2.50). "It’s kind of cool right now to be down with a PBR — slumming a bit," notes Rian Adams. "But I think Ballantine is more popular with older drinkers. You don’t see the young scenesters drinking it too often."

American classic beers have long been a staple at Bukowski’s because of "nostalgia and their affordability," says Jason Jackson, a bartender at the Back Bay bar. In addition to PBR on tap ($2.99), Bukowski’s offers bottled Schlitz ($2.75), Ballantine Ale tallboy cans ($4), Genny Cream cans ($2.75), bottles of Schaefer ($3), Miller Highlife ($2.75), and Brubaker ($2.75), and 12-ounce cans of Black Label ($2.99), Old Milwaukee ($2.75), and Genesee Beer ($2.75).

Although known for specialty beers, Anam Cara in Brookline has a "Lawnmower Beers" menu featuring 16-ounce cans of PBR ($2) and 12-ounce cans of Black Label ($2) alongside the more ubiquitous domestic labels.

Meanwhile, the Model Café in Allston sells 16-ounce drafts of PBR ($2). Dorothy Anthony, the Model’s owner, has no plans to bring back Schlitz. ("It was my biggest seller ... about 30 years ago," she laughs.) But she’s quick to add, "I never thought Pabst Blue Ribbon would come back. So how do I know?"

For the time being, however, back-to-basics beers are getting their due as an affordable, lightly flavored option to the microbrews showcased at so many Boston bars. Says Redbones’ Chris Bol: "Mostly, our beers are high-class, fancy, geeky beers — which I love, by the way. But sometimes it’s just nice to relax with an easy-drinking beer."

Where to find it:

• Anam Cara, 1648 Beacon Street, Brookline, (617) 277-2880.

• Bukowski’s, 50 Dalton Street, Boston, (617) 437-9999; 1281 Cambridge Street, Cambridge, (617) 477-7077.

• Charlie’s Kitchen, 10 Eliot Street, Cambridge, (617) 492-9646.

• Flat Top Johnny’s, 1 Kendall Square, Cambridge, (617) 494-9565.

• Model Café, 7 North Beacon Street, Allston, (617) 254-9365.

• Redbones, 55 Chester Street, Somerville, (617) 628-2200; www.redbones.com.