E-Mail This Article to a Friend The early bird gets the (farm-fresh) worm Invest in community-supported-agriculture ‘shares’ BY NAZ SIOSHANSI

Perhaps it’s the snow and sleet that make it hard for most Bostonians to imagine — let alone plan for — spring. Still, there are some visionaries who see not barren, snow-covered ground, but rather fertile soil in hibernation. They’re already imagining the taste of freshly picked tomatoes, sprinkled with salt and pepper; sprigs of basil that can perfume an entire kitchen; and fresh berries that provide a perfect ending to any summer meal. These images have led such visionaries from thought to action, as evidenced by the fact that available community-supported-agriculture (CSA) "shares" are being snapped up at local farms in the Greater Boston area.

CSA was started 30 years ago by a group of Japanese women who wanted to help their local farm prosper. Supporters cover a farm’s annual budget by buying a "share" in the upcoming harvest. The share is typically purchased during the winter, ensuring the farm’s income until the next harvest. In return, the purchaser receives produce from that farm. The concept of CSA was adapted locally in 1985 and has grown steadily across the Greater Boston agricultural community. The typical guidelines are:

? One share meets the vegetable needs of a family of four.

? All farms allow you to pick your own produce; some deliver the packaged produce to a convenient predetermined location for pick-up on a set weekday.

? Fresh produce is provided to shareholders weekly from early summer to late fall.

? Season is typically from early summer to late fall or early winter.

Part of the fun is the surprise that each box of produce brings. Heirloom Harvest Community Farms, in Westborough, outlines two inventories from its 2004 boxed share produce on its Web site — one from the week of June 30 and one from September 15. June’s inventory included cauliflower, mustard greens, lettuce, and beets; September’s had watermelon, leeks, pie pumpkins, hot peppers, flowers, eggplants, and more. Delivery isn’t currently available, but the farm is seeking volunteers to establish delivery sites in Cambridge and Boston. Each share costs $575.

In addition to the mixed sample of weekly harvests, a share from the Food Project, located in Lincoln, includes a newsletter with suggested recipes and upcoming farm events. The cost of a share is $400 (which can be paid in full or in installments through April 2005), and produce is provided from the first week in June through the last week in October — although vegetables can be preserved to enjoy throughout the winter. The boxes are available for weekly pick-up at locations in Cambridge, Arlington, and Boston.

Other farms, such as East Hampton’s Ol’ Turtle Farm, price their shares on a sliding scale based on what people can contribute, ranging from $425 to $525.

What are you waiting for? There’s one farm — Brookfield Farm, in Amherst — that already has a wait list for its $400 shares.

Where to get it:

• Brookfield Farm, 24 Hulst Road, South Amherst, (413) 253-7991; www.brookfieldfarm.org

• The Food Project, P.O. Box 705, Lincoln, (781) 259-8621; www.thefoodproject.org

• Heirloom Harvest Community Farms, P.O. Box 1031, Westborough, (508) 963-7792; www.heirloomharvestcsa.com

• Ol’ Turtle Farm, 385 East Street, Easthampton, (413) 527-9122; www.olturtlefarm.com