Mr. Crêpe

Burritos with a pedigree

by Steve Almond

on the cheap

Emma's, July 20 Anna's Taquería, July 13 Friendly Eating Place July 6 Vanille June 29

This dainty eatery a block outside Davis Square is packing them in only a month after opening. And for good reason. The crêpe is a nearly perfect indulgence food: easy to make, fun to eat, and too sophisticated to be indicted for its triple-digit calorie count. Mr. Crêpe's version is nothing to trifle with: nearly a foot across and stuffed to the gills with a dizzying variety of fillings.

Try the chicken tagine with roasted carrots, the lamb sausage with roasted bell peppers, or the grilled swordfish with piquant frisée salad ($6.95 each). For vegetarians, the options include roasted seasonal vegetables and feta cheese, and shaved fennel with tomatoes, basil, and marinated mozzarella ($6.50). For those who crave a slightly more conventional treatment, there's a selection of deli-style crêpes (a cheese crêpe runs $3.50; smoked ham or turkey with cheese rings up at $5.50 a pop), as well as a sensational apple-and-brie concoction ($4.50). Did we forget to mention dessert? Quel dommage! Try the sublime Nutella-and-strawberry combo ($5.50) or, if you're feeling especially decadent, the Belgian dark chocolate with banana and coconut ($5.25). Control freaks are also offered the option of building their own crêpe ($4.75) by choosing from an extensive à la carte menu of meats, cheeses, and veggies.

One possible drawback: because of unexpectedly heavy foot traffic from Davis Square, the place tends to jam up after 8 p.m. Even with several crêpes cooking simultaneously, the wait can exceed 15 minutes. So don't necessarily expect to dine and dash, although crêpes are conveniently folded and can be eaten on the go. Just think of them as burritos with a pedigree.

Mr. Crêpe, located at 83 Holland Street, in Somerville, is open Tuesday through Friday from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m., and Saturday and Sunday from 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. Closed Monday. Call (617) 628-1500.

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