Al Stankus, a wine steward at Davio’s on Arlington Street in Boston, tells an old joke when he talks about wine.
" How do you get to Carnegie Hall? Practice, practice, practice, " he quips. " It’s the same with wine: how do you learn about wine? Taste, taste, taste. "
There’s a lot to know about wine, and as most people who’ve acquired years of knowledge will tell you, once they started learning, they realized how much more there is to know. The bottom line is that wine should be enjoyed; it should be fun and a pleasure to drink. True, more information about what you’re drinking is likely to enhance that pleasure, as with most things, but you have to start somewhere.
With that in mind, we’ve talked with local wine experts to help dispel any anxieties you might have about buying, ordering, serving, and even drinking wine (not that you’d have an issue with that). With a few guidelines and suggestions, you might find a new passion — and, if you’re not careful, the beginning of a wine cellar.
The first question is, how do you find and buy a wine you like? Go to your neighborhood wine store and develop a relationship with a salesperson; that’s what many sommeliers (which, by the way, is just a fancy French word for " wine waiter " ) and wine experts suggest. " People in the business taste more wine than you and can separate the chaff for you, " says Stankus, who’s been tasting wine since 1976.
Bill Nesto, a master of wine and instructor for Boston University’s Special Programs wine courses, adds, " The combination of knowledge and interest is crucial on the part of the salesman. "
Tell the salesperson for what purpose you are buying the wine. Is it for dinner? Mention what’s being served. If it’s just to sit and sip, what do you feel like? Nesto urges you to keep an open mind, both in terms of what the salesperson suggests and when you open the bottle. " The biggest barrier is preconceptions to really deepen your enjoyment and understanding of wine, " he explains. " Getting beyond your preconceptions is essential. "
The same can be said for ordering wine in a restaurant, which can cause hyperventilation for several reasons. One, you may be overwhelmed by a 53-page wine list (such as the one at the big-steak, big-wine Grill 23 & Bar) and feel embarrassed to ask for help; or two, by asking for help, you may be guided to an expensive bottle and spend more money than you intended.
But here’s a secret sommeliers want to share: they are your friends, they want to help, and in fact, many say they’re there to do the opposite of what you suspect. " Sommeliers can save you a lot of money, " says Jeannie Rogers, co-owner and wine buyer at Il Capriccio in Waltham, which features Northern Italian cuisine and small-production Italian wines. " That’s what they’re really there for. " Rogers points out that guests may choose a higher-priced wine because it’s familiar, or because they think the price means good quality. But someone well versed in the wine list may be able to suggest a bottle with better value.
Nathalie Vache, a native of Bordeaux, France, and the Grill 23 & Bar wine director, knows her 900-bottle list is intimidating for most people. That’s why she’s broken it down into sections and provided a table of contents. She suggests half-bottles for tables where guests are eating different entrées such as seafood, fowl, and steak, and one section lists bottles for $75 and under, an easy and discreet way to stay within budget.
As for tipping your wine steward or sommelier, it’s up to you. Stankus has received everything from $2 to $50. " I do work to make your night more enjoyable, " he says.
The guidelines for storing and serving wine are pretty straightforward. Store wine in a consistently temperate environment, in a dark, cool place (about 55 degrees Fahrenheit), keeping it out of the sun and away from extreme vibrations.
When you’re ready to serve the wine, take it from these experts: glassware counts, as does the temperature of the wine. There’s something about a nice crystal glass, such as a Riedel Vinum or Spiegelau, which promotes sipping and savoring. BU’s Bill Nesto suggests a glass in which the bowl is wider than the rim or lip, so you can swirl the wine to help it " breathe " (which really means the surface of the wine meets air so the aromas are released); the closed rim keeps the aroma or bouquet concentrated.
Il Capriccio’s Jeannie Rogers suggests pouring a smidgen of wine into the glass, swirling it, and then tossing it out to make sure soap residue is washed away.
Generally, whites should be served chilled, but not too cold. " Because it numbs the flavor, " says Nesto, who recommends that higher-end white Burgundies be served around 60 degrees. Otherwise, chill at 48 to 50 degrees, says Grill 23’s Nathalie Vache.
Reds may also need a bit of cooling. Lighter reds, such as the fall-famous Beaujolais, are best cooled to 60 or a little lower. Others, like a full-bodied Napa cabernet sauvignon, can go to 65 degrees, according to Nesto.
Wine dinners, in-store tastings (sign up for store newsletters that announce tastings and specials, urges Stankus), and the annual Boston Wine Expo are great ways to do what aspiring oenophiles need to do: taste, taste, taste.
" The essential thing is not to care about your image if you’re tasting with other people, " says Nesto, who encourages you to drink wine in the company of friends or others with whom you can talk openly about the experience. " Try to discover wine on your own terms. "
Naomi Kooker can be reached at nkooker@rcn.com
